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Sunday, September 18, 2011

Lion's head braised Chinese meatballs - two ways


(Click on image for larger view)
I've loved this dish since I first discovered it in Mai Leung's Classic Chinese Cook Book several years ago.  That was the first time I'd heard of it, and over time I have modified to suit my taste.

Today I modified things to suit the market (and my pantry).

These meatballs are a natural comfort food; they simmer in a savory stock studded with cabbage and mushrooms which can be made into either a thick sauce, or served as a soup.  I'm sharing both with you today.  The backbone is simple ground pork; the store only had completely lean pork available so I have added 75 / 25 ground beef to add a bit of fat.  The result was a bit loose, and the meatballs turned out a bit more like polygons, but the flavor was fantastic.

The wilted cabbage leaves are said to resemble the mane of a lion; with a little creative license it works out fine.

THE RECIPE

FOR THE MEATBALLS:

1# ground pork
1# ground beef, 75 / 25 fat
1 can water chestnuts (or fresh); minced
1 can bamboo shoots (or fresh); minced
One 2in. length fresh ginger root, peeled and minced
4 scallions, minced
4 T black (thick) soy sauce
3 T cornstarch
2 T shaoxing cooking wine
2 T sesame oil
1 T granulated sugar
1 T ground white pepper
1 t minced garlic
1 t five spice powder
3-4 drops chili oil
1 egg
Corn oil for frying

Mix above ingredients in a bowl, enough to blend but do not overmix.  Form 8-10 balls and set aside on a plate.

FOR THE STIR FRY

1 head Napa cabbage
6 dried Shiitake mushroom slices
Corn oil for stir frying

4 cups chicken of beef stock

Salt, to taste

3 scallions, minced

Remove 3-4 outer leaves and set aside.  Reconstitute the mushrooms in hot water, approximately 30 minutes.  Core the cabbage and shred lengthwise into 1 inch strips.  Drain the mushrooms and press out excess water; dice and reserve the liquid.

VERSION 1 - LION'S HEAD IN SOUP

Heat a wok; add a bit of oil and brown the meatballs all over; remove and set aside.

(Click on image for larger view) Fresh from the wok.
Return the wok to heat; add the mushrooms and cabbage and wilt slightly.  Add the mushroom liquid and simmer 3-5 minutes.

(Click on image for larger view)
Transfer to a Dutch oven.  Add the meatballs and stock;

(Click on image for larger view)
cover with the whole cabbage leaves.


Bring to a boil; cover and simmer over low flame for 50 minutes.

(Click on image for larger view) Just done; here is the "mane".
Check the stock and adjust seasoning as desired.  For each portion, place some of the vegetables on the bottom of a bowl.  Add a meatball or two, garnish with one of the whole cabbage leaves on the side (to form the "mane") and scallions.

(Click on image for larger view)


VERSION 2 - LION'S HEAD IN SAUCE

1 - 2 cups braising liquid from the main casserole
1 T Shaoxing cooking wine
1 t light (thin) soy sauce
1 t Chinkiang (black) vinegar

2 T cornstarch
&
2 T cold water, blended to form a slurry

Steamed rice
scallions, minced

In small saucepan, heat the first four ingredients.  Slowly add the cornstarch in increments.  Whisk the sauce as it thickens.  For each portion, place rice in a bowl; add some vegetables, a meatball and pour heated sauce over.  Garnish with scallions.

(Click on image for larger view)
Don't forget the Sriracha hot sauce as well!

Sunday, September 11, 2011

Dim sum for dinner - "Kicked up" pork and vegetable congee

(Click on image for larger view.)  A little of everything in a rich, homemade stock.
Since our recent heat wave is at an end, I declare it time for soup.  I could not make it to dim sum this morning, so here we are with the next best thing.

This soup is a delicacy wheeled around on the special cart in Chinese restaurants - the one with the steaming mystery cauldrons which sends the most delicate scents wafting about the room; the one for which I hold off tucking into all the shumai and har gow and char siu bau (well, at least I try to).  I've always wanted to make this, and it occurs to me I have several quarts of pork stock which are just begging to be used up.

While it is most often served for breakfast, congee (rice porridge) is great any time of day, and is even good for an upset stomach and special diets.  It can be toned down as a food for babies and even for folks who are under the weather; it's a great recovery food.  Like so many soups, it is also a great way to use up leftovers.

It is truly a comfort food, but can be treated as a blank canvas for individual interpretation (that's the part I like).  The backbone is a good stock (ALWAYS a favorite for me) and good quality white rice - I am using Calrose for this batch.  Just about any protein or vegetable can be used, and it is SO easy to prepare I'm kicking myself for not making this sooner!

Typically congee has a mild flavor profile.  Of course, I can't leave well enough alone, so I have used LOTS of vegetables and just a touch of heat to finish the dish off.

THE RECIPE

1 cup rice (white or brown) medium grain

8 quarts stock (I used pork)
2 ribs celery, minced
1 large onion, diced
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 carrots, thinly sliced
1/2 cup shiitake mushrooms, sliced
1 dash corn oil

1 cup shredded pork

3-4 scallions, sliced bulbs and leaves separated

ground white pepper, to taste
sea salt, to taste

Sesame oil
Chili oil
soy sauce

Soak rice in cold water for at least 30 minutes; rinse and drain.

Bring stock to boil; add stock, vegetables, rice and oil.  Reduce to simmer.  Reduce until stock has thickened and ingredients have softened, approximately 30 minutes.  When a thick consistency has been reached add scallion bulbs, season with salt and pepper, stir in pork and heat through.

Garnish with scallion green slices, sesame and chili oils, and soy if desired.  Serve piping hot.

**NOTE: if you are not familiar with these two oils, be cautious!  They both have very strong flavors; add just a drop or two and taste from there.**

(Click on image for larger view.)

Monday, August 1, 2011

Curried Lamb "Lo mein"

Click on image for larger view.
Rarely will you see the words, "quick" or "simple" on this blog; it's just not in me, but this is an exception.  So often I get home past the time where I even want to cook and think I'll do without, then later just end up eating badly.  Hence the need, as always, for quick dishes.  This may not be the most healthy, but I had to do it.

I love the variety and value at the local Asian markets, and quick components are easy to find.


My thoughts were first to work out a simple lo mein (protein, vegetables and noodles) until turning the corner onto the aisle with the curries.  That got the ball rolling, and thus a fusion dish with Chinese, Thai and Korean elements resulted.

The consistency is not extremely saucy, rather more like a sopa seca, this was intentional; but you can easily just add more liquid and emulsify with some corn starch if you wish.  I ended up using the whole tin of spicy Phaenang curry and it brought the heat - taste and use only as much as you can take if you try this one!
THE RECIPE

2 T corn or peanut oil for frying
1/2 # lamb, thinly sliced against the grain
2 shiitake mushrooms, sliced (I used dried slices)
2 carrots, shredded
1/2 medium onion, thinly sliced
2 cloves garlic, grated
10-12 slices bamboo shoots matchstick cut (I used the chili & sesame marinated style; you HAVE to try these if you like spicy foods.)
1 bunch sliced scallions, white ends and leaves separated
2 large ribs bok choy, thinly sliced including leaves

1/4 cup curry paste, red or green (more to taste); I used 1/2 cup of red curry and I'm breathing fire but it's SOO good!
1/4 cup water (flex according to your taste)
2 T Shiaoxing wine or sake
2 T Chinese black vinegar
1/2 t ginger powder
1/2 t gochugaru, or other chile powder
2-3 dashes thin soy sauce

1 gallon boiling water
1 # chow mein or other stir fry noodle

crushed red chile flakes, if desired

Heat a wok over high flame; bring water to a boil in a large pot.

Swirl some oil into the wok and sear the lamb; if using reconstituted mushrooms, add these at the same time.  Set aside and reserve.  Stir fry the remaining vegetables, giving the bok choy just a minute.  Return the lamb and combine all ingredients by tossing.

Dip the noodles into the boiling water and cook according to instructions.  Drain and rinse with cold water.

Add the sauce ingredients and a final splash of oil.  As noted above this is fairly dry; if you want to have more of a sauce just add more water and wine, and thicken with equal parts corn starch and water.  Add a portion of noodles equal to the volume in the wok and stir fry, "pulling through" the noodles and mixing in the lamb and vegetables.  Serve garnished with scallion leaves and chile flakes, if desired.

Yield 2 portions as an entree or 4 if a side dish

Thursday, July 28, 2011

Spam Musubi

As always, my take on the original.

Click on image for larger view.  Sandwich style musubi.
Those of you who know me best understand my life-long love affair with Spam, and especially since my one and only trip to Hawaii the obsession I've had with this product.  Musubi is a variant on sushi, with crispy fried Spam in Teriyaki style sauce and sushi rice all bundled up in toasted nori.  It is best served with the Spam right out of the pan and the rice still warm; however it is the ultimate picnic food and travels well.

I have just taken delivery of my new press (purchased online from Amazon)

Click on image for larger view.  $9.95 on Amazon.
and had to experiment right away.  The rice patties can be formed by hand OR within the Spam can if you cut the bottom away with a can opener - and watch out for the edges (thank you Biggie for this tip).

THE RECIPE

SUSHI RICE

2 cups sushi or Calrose rice (short grain, sticky rice)
2 1/2 cups water
4 T seasoned rice vinegar
1/2 t granulated sugar

Rinse the rice in a fine mesh sieve until the water runs clear.  Add water and bring to boil; simmer over low heat for 20 minutes.  Remove from heat and let stand for 15 minutes.  Transfer to a glass bowl and add vinegar and sugar.  Stir thoroughly and fan with rice paddle.  Stir every few minutes until cooled.



FRIED SPAM

One can Spam, sliced into 8 pieces

2 T kecap manis (Indonesian sweet / spicy soy sauce)
2 T mirin (sweetened cooking sake)
1/2 t ground ginger
1/4 t ground white pepper

Heat a large skillet over medium high flame; spray quickly with pan release.

Mix seasonings in a small bowl and pour over the spam slices after 3 minutes cook time.



Turn the slices and cook another 3 minutes.

Turn to coat evenly with the sauce mixture.



Remove and reserve on a plate.

4 sheets roasted sushi nori, cut to fit the mold (works out to two pieces per sheet)

Furikake (rice seasoning), to taste


small bowl of water for prep

SANDWICH STYLE MUSUBI

Lay out a piece of nori on a flat surface; center the press perpendicular to the wrapper.



Wet your fingers and fill the mold halfway with sushi rice.  Moisten the bottom of the press lid and press onto the nori.  Sprinkle with a bit of furikake.



Add a slice of Spam; sprinkle with more furikake

Click on image for larger view; almost ready.


and fill the press with rice.  Wet the lid and press well.
 

Remove frame and slide lid off the rice;

bring up the nori ends, wet the trailing edge of the wrapper and press to seal.  Invert onto a serving platter.  Serve warm or cool, or wrap and refrigerate for tomorrow's lunch.



CLASSIC STYLE MUSUBI

Follow all previous steps up to the formation.  Fill the press 3/4 with rice, press with lid.  Sprinkle with furikake; add Spam, bring up nori ends, wet the trailing edge of the wrapper and press to seal.

Click on image for larger view -- traditional preparation.
Serve warm or cool, wrap and refrigerate for tomorrow's lunch.

Aloha!

Saturday, July 23, 2011

Barbeque Pork Kreplach Soup

I live for irony; I love the irreverent blending of the sacred and the profane.  I'm just wired that way.

Click on image for larger view.

This dish is dedicated to my friend, Robin Drubin.  I've been wanting to make something like this for some time, and after last night's batch of puerco adovado failed to be as spicy as I'd hoped, I decided to finish it off with some Phil's BBQ sauce and go in this direction.

Kreplach soup is a traditional Jewish dumpling, very simply prepared with a minimum of ingredients served in a clear chicken stock, with or without vegetables.  Usually the filling is chicken, beef or lamb, onion and salt.  But I can't leave well enough alone.

I have several quarts of my clarified chicken stock, and am finishing it with some carrots, onion and the hearts of the Napa cabbage from my previous post.

L'chaim!

Perhaps I will work on an Indian beef dish next week!

THE RECIPE

KREPLACHS

1 pkg. prepared dumpling skins

I am employing a cheat here, and using gyoza wrappers and a dumpling press for the kreplachs.

Press-to!  And infamy is mine!  Click on image for larger view.

Newly formed; click on image for larger view.

The traditional wrapper is simply flour, egg, water and a pinch of salt, kneaded into a stiff dough and rolled out to paper thin squares.  Cook the kreplachs in boiling water, and warm in the stock.

KREPLACH FILLING

 2# pork shoulder, cubed into 1 in. pieces
1 large onion, chopped
3 cloves garlic, minced
2 jalapeno peppers, chopped
3 T smoked paprika
3 t New Mexico chile powder
1 T cumin powder
1/2 cup water

1 t crushed red pepper
Sea salt and cracked black pepper, to taste

2-3 T barbeque sauce

1/2 cup water to seal the wrappers

Boiling water, reduced to simmer
1 T oil

Place all the ingredients up to the water in a crock pot; cook on high for 5.5 hours.  Add the crushed pepper and season with salt and black pepper.  Cook for another 1/2 hour.  Cool, drain off all fat and stir to shred the pork.  Stir in the barbeque sauce and reserve until needed.

Add approximately 1 t filling to each dumpling skin; wet one half of the wrapper and press.  Seal corners together if desired.  Drop into simmering water and simmer until cooked, 5-6 minutes.

THE STOCK

8 cups chicken stock
3 carrots, 1/8 inch coin cut
1/2 large onion, thinly sliced
2 cups sliced cabbage
1 bunch sliced scallion bulbs

Simmer the carrots in stock for 15 minutes; add onion and cabbage.  Simmer for another 10 minutes.  Ladle vegetables and stock into individual bowls.  Gently transfer the dumplings to serving bowls and garnish with the scallions.

Stir-fried beef with yam noodles in soju coconut cream sauce

This is another East meets West, Amer-Asian experiment.

Click on image for larger view

I've apparently sat on the wheat noodles I picked up at the Vietnamese store too long and they are unusable, SO I went to the Korean store for a replacement - yam noodles.  I've cut up thinly sliced eye of round steak into matchsticks and worked up a spicy sauce based on my favorite Asian liquor - soju.  If you are not familiar with this product, it is very distinctive - it has been described to me as similar to gin; that analogy holds for a bit.  Soju is distilled from grain (often rice), sweet potato and tapioca.  I've infused this with lemongrass, ginger, garlic and scallions and mellowed it out with coconut milk then swirled in the yam noodles over the beef and shredded vegetables.

THE RECIPE

SOJU SAUCE
One small bottle (200ml) soju, preferably Jinro brand
One inch ginger, matchstick cut
1 T dried lemongrass
4 cloves garlic, sliced
One bunch scallion ends, cut 1/4in. up from the root

7 oz. (1/2 can) coconut milk

2 t corn starch
2 t cold water, more of both as needed

Infuse the soju with the first four ingredients;

Dried lemongrass, ginger and onion steeping in the soju.

keep on low flame until reduced just under half its volume, approximately 20 minutes.  Strain through a fine mesh sieve and reserve.  Warm the coconut milk over low flame, add the seasoned soju and as much of the corn starch mixture as needed to achieve a thickened sauce.  Set aside.

STIR FRY
2-3 T corn or peanut oil for frying
1# thinly sliced beef
2 carrots, grated
2 ribs celery, matchstick cut
1/2 onion, thinly sliced
1 cup Napa cabbage leaves, shredded
2 cloves garlic, grated
1 jalapeno pepper, thinly sliced
1 bunch scallion leaves, slivered
1T kecap manis (Indonesian sweet / spicy soy sauce)

1# yam noodles, drained and cut into 1/3rd pieces
1/2 t furikake, for garnish

Heat a wok over high flame; add oil and sear beef.  Remove and reserve; bring pan back to heat and quickly cook vegetables.  Return beef to pan; flip to heat, add noodles, kecap manis and heat through.

Swirl in sauce and heat until ingredients are coated.  Serve immediately garnished with the furikake.

Sunday, July 3, 2011

Mesquite-grilled rib eye steak with brie sauce

(Click on image for larger view) Finished product, vegetables just off the grill.

Here am I with a rare summer day off, and grilling season is open.  I am not as practiced on the grill as I should be, so I approach these projects with enthusiasm - and some trepidation.

I blame today's overindulgence on the supermarkets with their 50% off meat sale, and their 3-inch thick cut steaks in the meat case.  I locked onto one, and suddenly I was Mike Myers in Wayne's World..."oh, yes...it will be mine..."

How to make it more decadent? you may ask  (OK, maybe that was me.) - the answer is simple - MORE FAT.  Oh, and tons of freshly ground black pepper.  A splash of Cognac can't hurt, either.

I paired this steak up with grilled vegetables and skin-on white rose potatoes; bonus round -- after searing the steak, I finished it up on indirect heat and seared my sides directly over the mesquite coals in a cast-iron grilling basket.

THE RECIPE

Rib Eye (or your favorite) steak, brought to room temperature

Worcestershire sauce, sea salt, Tabasco and freshly cracked ground black pepper to taste.

Season the steak on both sides, turning every 20 minutes until grilling time.  Sear over hot coals then set on the opposite side of the grill until you reach your preferred temperature, then let rest for 10 minutes.  While the steak rests, start the sauce.



BRIE SAUCE

3-4 slices thick pepper bacon, fat reserved (cook and cool this ahead of time)

1 medium shallot, minced
1 large clove garlic, grated
1/2 t dried basil
1/2 t capers, minced
2 T Cognac

+/- 2 T butter
+/- 2 T flour (adjust the roux as needed)


1 wedge brie (I found a nice double creme brie with mushrooms), rind peeled
 3-4 T cream
Coarsely cracked black pepper, to taste

Chop the bacon for garnish; set aside.

Sautee shallot, garlic, basil and capers briefly in one teaspoon of the rendered bacon fat.  Add and cook off the cognac, 3-4 minutes.  Transfer to another pan.  Combine the butter and flour to create a roux, whisking continuously for 4-5 minutes to cook the flour well.  In the second pan, melt the cheese over medium heat with the first ingredients.  Stir to prevent scorching.  Add the cream, roux, and season.  Stir over medium heat until proper consistency is reached.  Pour over the steak and garnish with bacon.

**keep the cream at hand, and add more if needed to smooth out the sauce.  This batch took nicely to a little fresh beef stock as well.**



THE SIDES

I took corn, carrots, white rose potatoes and parboiled them.  To these, I added onion, celery, jalapeno pepper slices and broccoli, drizzled in olive oil and sprinkled with garlic salt and lots of black pepper.

First turn; I ended up with a nice char for the plateup.


This will either make three great meals, or two plus incredible hash tomorrow for breakfast!  Let me know if you try this one.