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Monday, February 21, 2011

Poached pears with bleu cheese

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I am not a freak for sweets and desserts, but this is one I enjoy.  I think it's because this is not insipidly sweet; it picks up tart flavor from the balsamic vinegar and lemon juice.

This is a wonderful end to any meal; ripe, succulent pears poached in port and stuffed with bleu cheese, drizzled with a silky, syrupy port reduction.  Serve this with a snifter of Cognac or your favorite cordial -- even serve it alongside a little lavender ice cream!

I first tasted these lovelies in Palm Desert; they have been a staple of mine ever since - with the requisite additions to make them my own.

Cast of characters.

THE RECIPE

1 pear per person (these are red d'anjou)
1 bottle cooking quality port wine, 750ml / 1/5 Liter as needed
1-2 T granulated sugar
2 T balsamic vinegar
1 t lemon juice
1/2 t dried tarragon leaves
1/2 t dried basil leaves

In the poaching liquid; the port imparts a beautiful rose tint to the pears.

4 - 8 oz. blue veined cheese, crumbled (this is where you can splurge, since you saved money buying cheap port - look for Maytag bleu cheese or English Stilton)

Peel and core the pears; set into the smallest sauce pan which fits the pears without stacking.  Cover with port wine and add the remaining ingredients.  Bring the port to a simmer and poach the pears until very tender, 10 -15 minutes.  Remove the pears with a slotted spoon and chill them in the refrigerator.

Chill a dessert plate for each pear in the freezer.

Strain the port mixture to remove the herbs.

Pour port mixture into a deep skillet or larger sauce pan with wide surface area.  Simmer over medium heat; do not boil.  Reduce the port mixture to syrup.  Check the flavor and adjust the tart / sweet components to your taste.  Remove from heat.

Slice the base of each pear to ensure it will sit flat on its plate.  Plate each pear, fill the core with cheese, drizzle with port syrup and garnish with a little more of the cheese. 

Sit back and accept compliments.

Sunday, February 20, 2011

Mache and mixed greens salad with Champagne vinaigrette

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Mache (lamb's lettuce), radicchio and arugula are, in my humble opinion, the best salad greens ever.  I needed a quick, light salad to go with my fish dinner, so I hit up my go-to guys.  Mache also gives the salad height, as the fronds buoy up the other greens, and the whole lot stand up to the dressing very well.

OK, now I don't have too many rules for food, and I love breaking with tradition, but I don't in general care to have fruit or nuts in my meals -- these are for dessert.  With that in mind, most people might add dried cranberries, raisins, apricots, roasted walnuts or candied pecans.  I recommend it; I welcome it - I just won't put it on my salads.

THE RECIPE
(per portion)
 a mix of mache and baby salad greens
Sliced heirloom tomatoes
Sliced scallions
Sliced roasted red bell pepper, for garnish

THE DRESSING
2 T grape seed oil
2 T Champagne vinegar
1 t whole grain Dijon mustard
1/2 t minced fresh thyme leaves
Salt and pepper, to taste (I used pink Himalayan finishing salt)

Compose the greens and other ingredients; blend dressing and drizzle over the salad.  Enjoy!

Lactic Fermentation Chapter 4: Spicy Kimchi

Straight out of the crock.
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After a very successful batch of dilled sauerkraut I couldn't let the crock sit empty for long.  So, I pressed the Gartopf back into service for a large batch of kimchi - my variant on the traditional Korean cabbage and vegetable side dish.

Kimchi is a staple of the Korean diet, and there are many, many versions of this most popular dish.  I have incorporated my own ideas, traditional elements, as well as some from the folks on the forum at:

Wild Fermentation  www.wildfermentation.com

and:

Kevin at Closet Cooking

www.closetcooking.com - I wish to credit them fully.

The backbone of this dish is Napa cabbage.  It is flavored with Korean chile powder and herbs; true to form, I have combined different styles and ended up with a mix of 16 ingredients.  I have sampled the ferment as it came together, and I have high hopes.  If it's this good to start, it must be a winner coming out of the vat ~

I recognize in my cooking that several of my dishes have a one-dimensional, bold profile.  I don't do subtle very well.  In balancing the flavors in this ferment, I believe I have made some progress in overcoming this issue.  The gochu garu and paprika provide a depth of flavor, while the red chili flakes add just a touch of heat, and the sugar and fish sauce mellow and counterbalance the savory components.

If you have not caught my previous posts on fermentation, I am using a 5-L German Harsch crock specially designed for this purpose.  It weighs the product down beneath a brine while creating an anaerobic environment for the lactobacilli to flourish. Of course, there are many other contraptions one can use to ferment; your imagination is the limit, but this is a foolproof method.

Here's a partial cast of characters for this project...

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THE RECIPE
(Of course, this is a very large batch; cut back accordingly based on your vessel.)

9-10# Napa cabbage
1# Korean radish (Lo bok) or Japanese radish (daikon), shredded
1# Japanese turnips (kabu) or Western style turnip, shredded
2 bunches scallions, shredded
3 carrots, shredded
1 bunch mustard greens, heavy ribs removed, chiffonade sliced
1 bunch flat leaf Italian parsley, heavy stems removed, chopped
8-10 cloves garlic, minced or grated, adjust to taste
3-4 cups gochu garu (Korean chili powder), adjust to taste
5 T sea salt
2 T paprika
2-3 T grated ginger, adjust to taste
2 T granulated sugar
1 T crushed red chili flakes, adjust to taste +/-
3/4 cup fish sauce
2-3 T high quality soy sauce

1 cup whey OR starter from a previous ferment OR brine at a ratio of 1 1/2T salt to 1 cup warm water, dissolved (if needed)

Wash and prepare all of the vegetables; measure out all the other ingredients and keep containers close at hand should you need to add a bit more.

To prep the cabbage, discard the outermost leaves, slice each head in half and remove the core and lower stem ends of the bunch (save the ends for stir fry, Asian style soup or slaw).  Slice the leaves in half lengthwise, then chop across in one-inch strips.

Add cabbage, followed by the other ingredients in layers to the fermenting vessel; tamp down with a kraut pounder or potato masher to break down the cell walls and extract liquid from the vegetables.  I used 3 large heads of Napa, and added the ingredients in thirds after each head of cabbage was chopped.

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Stir well to combine and press with weights.  Add whey, kraut starter or brine if needed to cover the stones at least 3/4 inch with liquid.  Cover and set aside.  Check regularly and refrigerate when desired texture and flavor are achieved, approximately 3 weeks.

Monday, February 14, 2011

Decadent baked pasta with herbs, ricotta and sausage


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Necessity is the mother of invention, yet all too often in THIS house invention is the mother of leftovers.  Okay, many will bandy about the word, "casserole" -- well, bite your tongue ~ and allow me the term, "one dish meal" and my moment in the sun.  This dish has wonderful flavor, bright fresh herbs, two cheeses, spicy sausage and rich cream.

SO - I revisited a December post, "ricotta -- herb stuffed pork tenderloin" as I prepped one of these beautiful roulades for a friend to have as a special dinner; it was fun, and I netted a few new photos BUT I ended up with half a batch of the stuffing left over.  It had egg in it, so I needed to do something with it right away.  This idea was percolating in my head even as I finished the stuffing and saw I had nearly 4 cups remaining.

The pork loin was great - if you missed it, you can see the original here:

http://rogueamateurchef.blogspot.com/2010/12/ricotta-herb-stuffed-pork-tenderloin.html

Not quite shells and cheese nor baked ziti, but I am happy to have this in the fridge for a while for snacking - and sharing.  This baked up with the texture of lasagna.  Perfect for me, but if you want more of a "saucy" dish, add more half and half or milk.  Actually this was one of my quicker dishes to prep, and came together in under an hour; not quick but those of you who read me and know me will appreciate this.

THE RECIPE

1 batch ricotta - herb stuffing (see below), brought up to room temperature

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RICOTTA HERB STUFFING
1 cup baby spinach leaves, chiffonade
1/2 bunch flat leaf Italian parsley, chopped
1/2 bunch basil, chiffonade
2T thyme leaves, chopped
2 shallots, minced
2 large cloves garlic, minced
20 pieces sun dried tomatoes, reconstituted in hot water and minced
6 mushrooms, minced
1 cup ricotta cheese
1 egg, lightly beaten
1/4 - 1/3 cup plain bread crumbs, as needed for binding
Salt and pepper, to taste

2T EV olive oil
1 medium onion, diced
1 # Italian sausage (spicy for me!)

1/2 cup sharp cheddar cheese (or parmesan), shredded plus more for garnish
2T flour

1 pint half and half

1/4 cup bread crumbs

1 # tube pasta such as rigatoni, penne, mostaccioli, ziti (I used mezze penne)
boiling salted water with 1T oil

Saute the onion in EV olive oil; add the sausage.  Brown and crumble the sausage but remove from heat while still partially pink.  Drain partially and add to the ricotta mixture.  Stir to combine.

Toss the cheese in the flour; stir into the mixture.  Add 3/4 of the half and half.  Stir to combine.

Sauce mixture.
Cook the pasta in boiling water until (very) al dente, 6-8 minutes, according to pasta directions.  You want the pasta to be slightly underdone so it will not end up mushy after baking.


Preheat oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit.

Pour pasta and sauce mixture into a baking dish; pour a bit more of the half and half over the top and sprinkle a bit of the cheddar cheese and bread crumbs.

(Click on image for larger view) Ready for the oven.


Bake, covered, for 35 - 40 minutes.  Check, add more half and half if desired.  Turn oven to Broil; place baking dish on upper rack and brown the top.

Here's a look at the big portion I baked:

(Click on image for larger view) Piping hot out of the oven.

Garnish with crushed red peppers, and serve with green salad.  Buon Appetito!

Sunday, February 6, 2011

South of the Border Salmon Mousse


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This is a Superbowl snack.  

I thought I was taking wings to the family gathering, but my Sister-in-law had EVEN THESE covered in her menu (love you, Sam!) so I had to rack my brains to come up with something else.  Welcome to plan B.  Since she has a semi-Mexican menu on the table, I decided to give this some Latin American flavor.  This SIMPLE and QUICK recipe does not dissapoint!

THE RECIPE

1 - 15oz. can fancy pink salmon, or 1# fresh poached salmon fillet, flaked
8oz. cream cheese, room temperature
2 roasted Jalapeno peppers, minced
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, room temperature
1/2 bunch cilantro leaves, coarsely chopped
1 Tbsp fresh lime juice
Sea salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

Cilantro leaves, for garnish

Sliced baguette or other artisan bread, toasted


Roast the peppers; Heat a non-stick skillet over high flame and turn the peppers until the skin on all sides has blistered and charred.
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Remove from heat, place in plastic bag and quickly chill in freezer for 15 minutes.  Peel skins from peppers and remove stem, seeds and connecting tissue.  Slice lengthwise, then mince these strips.
Drain canned salmon; pick through to remove any bones.  Place in bowl of food processor.
Add remaining ingredients and process until smooth.  Transfer into small bowl, loaf pan or mold (hopefully something more interesting than my soup bowl), which has been thoroughly coated with oil or pan release.  Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.

Place a plate over the mold and invert, releasing the mousse.  Transfer to serving platter.

Toast bread slices on oven rack; Arrange around salmon mousse on platter.

Saturday, February 5, 2011

Asian Fusion Noodle Soup

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This started out as a clean-out-the-fridge project, with a couple of ideas in the back of my head (yeah, it's weird in there) and I thought, "why not do it up into something special"?  Those of you who know me understand I don't care much for leftovers; it seems each time I do something with them I simply create more leftovers.  But this is a wonderful exception.  Of course in keeping with my character, I have managed to make it as labor-intensive as possible, short of making my own noodles.  I bought those.  Other than the just slightly over poached egg (flub), I'm on Cloud 9.  Not quite ramen, not quite udon, still it all came together nicely.  

(I've had in my mind all the ramen scenes from the movie Tampopo as I cobbled these elements together.)

I am working with the ends and interior ribs of the Napa cabbage left over from the recent kimchi project, as well as the balance of the Korean radish and Japanese turnip and some other ingredients (that was the clean-out-the-fridge part).  I simmered the vegetables and used some udon soup base to make a mild, subtle stock.  Soft Korean flour noodles tied the whole thing together.

Treat this as a blank canvas; play with it based on what you like and have some fun.

THE RECIPE

4 cups water
2 cups Napa cabbage ribs and leaves, chopped into 1" strips (or any other cabbage / green you fancy)
1/2 cup Lo bok (Korean radish - this is much milder than daikon or Western radish), peeled and thinly sliced
1/2 cup Kabu (Japanese turnip), peeled and thinly sliced
1/2 small onion, thinly sliced
1tsp minced ginger
1tsp minced garlic

4Tbsp udon soup base (or soy / ponzu sauce)
1Tbsp Shaoxing cooking wine
1/2 tsp sesame oil
1/3 bunch cilantro leaves, coarsely chopped
5-6 leaves wakame (coiled dried seaweed), or crumbled nori sheets

Boiling salted water with 1Tbsp oil
2-3 oz. noodles

3oz. roasted chicken, sliced
3oz. Char siu barbecued pork (use any proteins you like; these are just the ones I had at hand)
1 egg, poached

Cilantro leaves, for garnish
Bell pepper slices, for garnish
Serrano chili slices, for garnish

Bring water to a boil; reduce heat to low and add the next 6 ingredients.  Simmer until vegetables are tender, approximately 15 minutes.  Pour stock through a strainer and reserve vegetables.  Return stock to medium-low heat and add next 5 ingredients.  

Using a strainer basket, "dunk" the proteins in the hot stock until warmed through.

Boil noodles in the salted water until just done.  Strain and portion between individual serving bowls.  Add some vegetables to each serving, and pour hot stock over each.  Arrange proteins atop this and garnish.  I sincerely hope your poached egg yolk is still runny; I was slightly disheartened when I cut into mine and it was just turning firm - it would have made for a much better picture!  But I had not eaten all day, and didn't want to cook another.

Of course I'm the only consumer tonight, and I'm putting noodles, stock and vegetables back in the fridge but use the proportions above as individual servings.  Enjoy!

**Now stretching out on the couch with a sense of accomplishment**

Tuesday, February 1, 2011

UPDATE -- Lactic Fermentation, Chapter 3: Sauerkraut

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In a post of a few weeks ago, I set up a batch of simple green cabbage sauerkraut with a touch of dill -- that's all; cabbage, salt, dill and a bit of brine.

I must say of all my fermenting endeavors, this has been my personal best, and has been received with critical acclaim -- not only have I enjoyed this as a side dish, over bratwurst and hot dogs, even a Reuben sandwich BUT the samples I have handed out have been hailed as, "the best 'kraut I've ever eaten!".

So here's a look at the finished product, and it's off to kimchi for the next project!