This dish has long been a favorite but somehow I have not attempted to make it until now. So, I've studied up on the subject (as they say, a little knowledge is a dangerous thing) and today I make my attempt.
There is so much rich history to share on the subject of Cajun food; like so many things American, it is a blessed amalgam of many cultures and many generations perfecting it. I won't go into all of the tradition, but will use and explain a few buzz words along the way as I have gained an education on this subject. Here's a quick glossary of terms:
GUMBO -- The name of the dish is attributed to American "bastardizing" (go figure) of the Portuguese "quingombo" and the Angolan "Kigombo", both phrases for okra, a staple of the recipe. There is apparently an ongoing debate among schools of thought whether it is the okra or the file which is the more significant emulsifier of the dish.
Cajun style gumbo incorporates diced tomatoes. Creole style gumbo uses no tomato, and each uses its own type of spice blend. Once the roux is prepared there are as many variations as there are Chefs -- there are several standard preparations, however, and I am attempting one with andouille sausage, chicken, shrimp and crab meat. Seafood gumbo uses variations of fish, shrimp, crab, scallops and even crayfish.
ROUX -- from classic French cookery, which has permeated the Southland since pre-colonial times. Roux is a 50/50 suspension of fat and flour which is combined over high heat and thickens soups, stews and for our purposes today, gumbo. Unlike traditional roux which employ butter as the fat, gumbo roux uses vegetable oil - virtually without exception. No matter the Chef or the recipe, roux is the backbone of any gumbo.
THE "HOLY TRINITY" -- is a takeoff on the classic French mirepoix. Most Cajun cooking starts with a combination of onion, bell pepper (red or green) and celery. Often this is backed up with garlic as well.
CAJUN SEASONING -- a mix of seven spices and salt. Vital to Cajun cooking, and a versatile blend which can serve as a barbecue rub as well as spice and flavor for many a dish.
GUMBO FILE -- the powdered leaves from the Sassafras tree. This spice imparts an unusual flavor and serves to thicken soups and sauces. Native Americans in the South are first attributed with its use.
THE RECIPE
8 Quart yield
1 cup vegetable oil
1 cup all purpose flour
2 large onions, 1/4 inch dice
3 bell peppers, red or green, 1/4 inch dice
4 stalks celery, 1/4 inch dice
1 head garlic, peeled and grated
2 quarts stock (one can use vegetable, seafood, chicken or a quick stock simmered from the shrimp to be used later). I used seafood stock from a previous project.
SHRIMP STOCK
2 Quarts water
1 1/2 pounds shrimp, whole
1 small onion, quartered
2 ribs celery, leaves attached, coarsely chopped
1 bay leaf
3 sprigs fresh thyme
3 sprigs flat leaf Italian parsley
Remove heads from shrimp; split and peel shrimp. Remove the tails and sand veins. Rinse the meat and pat dry. Set aside. Place the heads, shells and tails in a 3 quart stock pot with all other ingredients. Simmer for one hour and replace any evaporated water. Strain and reserve stock.
3/4 cup dry white wine
4 bay leaves
2T dried thyme leaves or chopped leaves from 1/2 bunch fresh
4-5 large tomatoes, peeled and diced OR 1 - 28 oz. can diced tomatoes with juice
1 pound Andouille sausage, 3/4 inch slices (if uncooked, brown slices in a hot skillet, then saute the okra in the rendered fat)
1 pound chicken thigh fillets, 1 inch cubes
1 pound fresh okra pods, 1/4 inch slices on the bias (if you have cooked andouille, saute the slices in a hot skillet with butter)
3T Cajun seasoning - you CAN buy this at the store, but make your own!
CAJUN SEASONING
6T salt
2T cayenne powder
2T paprika
2T white pepper
2T ground black pepper
2T onion powder
2T garlic powder
Mix all ingredients in a bowl and store in an airtight container in your pantry. Use within 6 months.
1 pound shrimp (if you have not made stock from the heads and shells, peel, remove tails and sand veins - and SAVE THOSE SHELLS in your freezer for future stock) 26 / 30 count are a good size to work with.
3-4 oz. crab meat
1t cayenne powder
1t Worcestershire sauce
1t mustard powder
2T gumbo file
Steamed rice
Minced flat leaf Italian parsley
Heat the vegetable oil in a large stock pot or Dutch oven over medium high flame. Whisk the flour in slowly and stir constantly. Keep stirring. Keep stirring. Keep stirring. You want to achieve a rich, reddish brown color. Here again are two schools of thought. Some cook the roux to a "peanut butter" color and scent, some to a darker "chocolate". Mine was somewhere in between. This took about 25 minutes.
Add the onion, bell pepper and celery; saute approximately 20 minutes, stirring frequently.
Add the wine, bay, thyme and tomato. Bring to a boil and simmer for 10 minutes. Add the sausage and chicken, reduce heat and simmer for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Add the okra and Cajun seasoning and simmer for 10 minutes.
Taste and adjust seasonings to your preference, adding more heat if you wish. Serve over rice and garnish with minced parsley.
My first attempt, and it was very satisfying -- C'est bon!
No comments:
Post a Comment