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The best stock you will ever have is your own! You have complete control of all the ingredients, the flavor profile, the salt and the strength. No mystery or artificial ingredients.
I like stocks with tons of vegetables and herbs which have been simmered for up to 12 hours. Once I have prepared them I freeze, then defrost, them through a filter to make a pristine, clear product. It takes a lot of time but it is worth the effort.
Though I have been riding on product I made several months ago, I am fresh out of chicken stock. It took me four stops and the frustration of seeing two closed produce markets to gather my ingredients today, but as the scent of the simmering stock in its final stages wafts about the house, I have no regrets.
Last year I purchased a 24 quart aluminum stockpot and it is one of my favorite pieces of equipment. My boss gave me a long-handled spoon which is more oar than utensil, and with these items and a good knife, it's off to the races.
Good stock starts with the best ingredients you can get.
1. The vegetables: I start with mirepoix (onion, carrot and celery) and add garlic. Prep for these is simple -- leave the onions unpeeled, and quarter them (cut into 8ths if you are making a smaller batch). Wash but do not peel the carrots. If you have bunch carrots with leaves intact, chop those into large pieces and add them. Use the core, ribs and leaves of the celery. They add flavor as well. Cut the carrot and celery on the bias as well as longitudinally to expose as much surface area as possible. Cut the garlic (unpeeled) laterally once or twice.
As this is an exercise in personal expression, you don't have to stop there. If you have any vegetable trimmings from any other meals, throw these in.
2. The herbs: I like to use fresh thyme, flat leafed Italian parsley, basil, oregano and bay leaves. Again, feel free to use any others you prefer.
3. The spices: Salt - a word here. If you are using iodized salt I IMPLORE you to switch to sea salt, or at least Kosher salt. You will notice the difference immediately. Iodized salt tastes like, well, iodine. I am going to give ranges in the recipe below, but keep two things in mind: the stock will reduce a bit which will intensify the flavors, and while you can always tap a bit more salt into the stock if needed, you can't take it away if you add too much. Diluting the stock to make it less salty also dilutes the flavor.
Pepper -- whole black peppercorns, or you can crush them coarsely with a mortar and pestle.
4. The bones: I save all bones from any dish I make. I also have investors: friends and family save me bones, and therefore I send them stock upon completion. You've got to give the people what they want! When it's time for stock, I supplement these with a brick or two of chicken bones from my local Asian market. This batch used approximately 10 pounds of bones.
5. The water: Unless you live somewhere with well water or a really great tasting municipal supply, do yourself a favor and use filtered or even distilled water for your stock.
THE RECIPE
I just finished straining the stock and it has yielded 13 quarts. I am just about to close the containers and put them into the freezer.
Really, the stock recipe is up to you. Proportionally, per 2-3 pounds of bones, I would suggest:
2 carrots
2 ribs celery
1 large onion
1/2 head garlic
1/2 bunch each of desired herbs, cut into large segments
3 bay leaves
1T sea salt
1t whole black peppercorns
Water, to cover and add as stock reduces
Multiply this base according to the amount of stock desired and adjust vegetables and herbs to your preference.
Simmer over low flame for at least 6-8 hours, longer if you can. It is important to not boil the stock, and only stir every 2 hours or so. This helps to keep the stock as clear as possible. Keep the stock above 150 degrees Fahrenheit while cooking.
Check and adjust seasonings if necessary prior to cooling.
After cooking, it is important to cool the stock down as quickly as possible. Place the stock pot into an ice bath (your kitchen sink or a larger pot), strain through a china cap as soon as it is cool enough to work with, pour into smaller storage containers and refrigerate or freeze as soon as it is cool. I like to work with 1 quart batches.
If you need to use the stock quickly, skim the fat off of the surface once it has cooled, or pour through a colony cup.
THE LONG METHOD
To remove all the solids and fat, there is a time-consuming (see, I'm nothing if not consistent) and true method of clarifying the stock. Place a basket style coffee filter in a fine mesh sieve over a deep bowl. Set one block of frozen stock in the strainer. Keep this contraption in your refrigerator until the stock has defrosted and dripped through the filter. Refreeze until needed.
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Monday, October 4, 2010
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