Seared diver scallops with a citrus-thyme emulsion

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Those of you who know me understand this sauce is a departure from my usual tastes; SO I had to tart it up a bit with the addition of some Champagne vinegar to play off the sweetness of the citrus.  But as I worked it out in my mind, the combination just sounded so good I had to try it.

Thyme is, for me, the ultimate seafood herb, so we need to have that; and of course some vermouth.

I'm teaming the scallops up with another favorite, simply sauteed Swiss chard.  This slightly bitter green mellows when sauteed in olive oil and garlic. 

To round out my plate I have some quinoa simmered in rich, homemade chicken stock with a kick of heat and shredded carrot for color.

The emulsion, quinoa and chard should be cooked ahead of time and held warm; this way you can concentrate on the scallops, which you must sear very quickly over high heat.

THE RECIPE

SPICY QUINOA

1 cup Quinoa
1 1/4 cup water or stock (chicken or vegetable)
1 pinch of sea salt
Several drops la yu chili oil

1 carrot, finely grated

Soak quinoa in water for 30 minutes; drain and add to stock; add remaining ingredients and bring to a boil.  Cover, reduce heat to low and simmer for 30 minutes.  Check; if cooked add carrot and let sit for 5 minutes; fluff with a fork and let sit for 5 minutes more.  If needed, add more stock and continue to simmer until cooked.

CITRUS THYME EMULSION

Juice from 3 oranges
Juice from 1 large lemon
Juice from 1 lime
2T champagne vinegar
1 dash dry vermouth
1/2 shallot, minced
1 pinch sea salt

leaves from 3-4 sprigs thyme, chopped
3T extra virgin olive oil

1t corn starch and 1t cold water, combined

Simmer all ingredients up to the salt in a small sauce pan; reduce by 20%.  Add thyme and simmer 5 minutes.  Remove from heat, add oil and emulsify in a blender.  Return to low flame.  Add a small amount of the corn starch mixture, just enough to thicken up the sauce -- I found it just needed a little help to take shape.  Hold over low flame until ready to serve scallops.

SAUTEED SWISS CHARD

1 bunch Swiss chard, thoroughly washed, dried, heavy ribs removed and sliced into 2" thick strips
1 clove garlic, finely grated
2T extra virgin olive oil
Sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper, to taste

In a large skillet, saute garlic over medium heat for 1 minute; add the chard and cook until tender, approximately 2 minutes.  Toss to distribute the garlic; season with salt and pepper.  Hold in a warm oven and plate just prior to serving scallops.

SEARED DIVER SCALLOPS

4-6 medium scallops per person
2T canola or peanut oil

20 minutes prior to service, remove the scallops, pat dry and set on a plate at room temperature.  Place flat side down (like coins).  Shoo away all cats which will materialize as you do this.  

Once you are ready for service, heat a wok or skillet over high flame.  Add oil.  Hold scallop plate 1 inch above wok surface and carefully slide the scallops off the plate by holding them in place with your hand and sliding out the plate.

Sear the scallops for 30 - 45 seconds per side; it is important to not overcook the scallops or they will be tough.  If you are in doubt, slice into one of them.  The interior should be translucent and extremely tender.  It will be cool, like a very rare steak.

Plate the scallops on a bed of Swiss chard and drizzle with the citrus emulsion.  Serve immediately.

Lactic Fermentation Chapter 3: Sauerkraut

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To my shame, my fermenting crock has been sitting dry for quite some time - months, in fact.  I am getting back into things by launching a good-sized batch of green kraut.

My last two batches were made from red cabbage with several herbs which I prefer, but right now I just have a yearning for good old-fashioned straight up sauerkraut (well, with ONE twist).  I like to drop in some fresh dill.

As I detailed in my earlier fermentation posts (pickles and giardiniera mix) the vessel is simple and all up to your ingenuity, storage space and budget -- Mason jars, larger glass vessels, plastic tubs, OR glass / stoneware crocks specifically designed for this purpose.  No matter the receptacle, the physics are the same - weight to keep the product submerged in brine and outside air from entering the vessel while allowing gases from the fermentation to escape.  I am simply enamored of my 5L Gartopf crock http://www.probiotics-lovethatbug.com/sauerkraut-crock.html  -- it eliminates many of the problems I read others experiencing in their fermenting endeavors.  The start up cost by far outweighs the failed product and frustration of the other gadgets.

Salt helps to both draw out the juices of the cabbage and preserve the sauerkraut as well as keeping it crisp by preventing the growth of other bacteria which soften and break down the leaves further.  Once the leaves are shredded they are layered into the vessel with salt (and any other herbs and seasonings) and SMASHED to break down the cellulose structure of the leaves and release most of the juice.  This can be done by hand (ouch), potato masher or (ta-da!) by means of a hardwood tamper made just for kraut.  I found mine online from a shop in Oregon.  http://www.krautpounder.com/  This is the basis of the brine; more brine may be necessary to cover the product and weights.

Fermenting time is a function of temperature.  In cooler climes, less salt and longer ferment is the rule.  More salt and quicker turnaround is the guideline in warmer weather.  In general, +/- 3 weeks is a realistic expectation here in Southern California at 70 degree average temperatures.  If you have space for cold storage, you can keep the kraut in the vessel / crock until used up - just keep it submerged in brine.  Always keep some of the juice from each batch and use it as a "starter" for your next ferment.  I have to start from scratch this time, as I don't want to use the purple juice from my last 2 batches and discolor the green cabbage.

The catalyst for the ferment are the lactobacilli.  They do all the work.  These probiotics preserve the nutrients of the cabbage and themselves are great for your health!  With the brine and weights, we have created an anaerobic environment for the critters to get down to business -- as we shall now.

THE RECIPE

Green cabbage, to fill vessel 80% after pressing (for a 5L crock, it took about 9# for this batch)
Sea or Kosher salt, approx. 1T per 3# of cabbage
1 bunch fresh dill, chopped
Brine (1T per 1/2 gallon water), if needed

Today's cast of characters.

Shred the cabbage thinly and layer into the vessel with salt and herbs.

First layer with salt and dill.

Periodically tamp down the leaves until vessel is 80% full, or your arms wear out.  ( I season per half head of cabbage, and tamp after each whole head).  Smash the leaves until they are of a wilted texture.  Season the top layer and press down with weights.  Brine should cover the weights by at least 1/2 inch; add prepared brine if needed.

Here is the full batch -- all fingers and toes intact, brine added.

Cover with lid (whatever type you are using) and store in a cool place.  The Gartopf crock has a water channel in the lid to create a one-way air barrier.

The Gartopf two-stone system folds into place to keep the product submerged in the brine.

And we're ready to go.

When you see bubbling, the fermentation process has begun. Keep water in this chamber and only remove the lid to sample the sauerkraut after approximately two weeks.  You can add a bit more salt if things are not progressing as you like; play with it.

Here us a detail showing the channel filled with brine and the exit chamber - simple, smart engineering.

Continue the ferment until desired texture and flavor has been achieved.

Break out the Brats and whole grain mustard, and have fun!

Mulled wine, my way

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We are having a bit of winter-like weather (by Southern California standards) the last couple days and having a little time off I declare this a night for mulled wine.  It's a comforting, soul-warming treat for a cool winter's eve.

It's all a matter of interpretation. but the basic elements are dry red wine, spices and some type of fruit.

The good news is you do not have to break the bank and use your good wine for this recipe -- an inexpensive 1.5 liter bottle or box wine will do.  I like to use a dry Cabernet Sauvignon.  I like my mulled wine less sweet, so I cut way back on the sugar, and bump up the spices.

Be careful to warm this slowly and do not boil.  Hold over a heat diffuser on low flame or warm and hold in a crock pot set on low.  Make a double batch for the holidays if you have a crowd.  Perhaps next week I'll do Glogg!

THE RECIPE

1.5L dry red wine (one can also use a white wine)
1/2 cup port 
1/4 cup granulated sugar (or add more to taste)
4 pieces stick cinnamon
10 whole cloves
6 whole cardamom pods
pinch ground nutmeg
4 whole allspice
2 star anise
2 bay leaves
1/2 cup dried cranberries (Craisins) or raisins
1 orange, cut into eighths

Place all ingredients into a saucepan and warm over low flame; allow to steep for 20 minutes.  DO NOT BOIL.

You will know when it's done by the WONDERFUL aromas which drift all across your home.

Serve with some of the steeped fruit and garnish with cinnamon stick and orange slice.

Ricotta - herb stuffed pork tenderloin

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I don't CARE if it's 80 degrees today, warmer than our summer was, I want to roast something.  I found whole pork tenderloin on sale today, and that got me started.  I've added herbs and vegetables, and thought to bind that all together with ricotta - let's see how it goes.

The filling is resplendent with fresh herbs, and studded with garlic and baby spinach.  During roasting the tenderloin is wrapped with bacon to keep it moist.  I served this with some simple pan-roasted potatoes and with the braised red cabbage from the previous post.

THE RECIPE

3-4 # Pork tenderloin, roll cut lengthwise
Salt and pepper, to taste
Several dashes Worcestershire sauce
8-10 slices bacon
Twine for tying the roast

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The roll cut is achieved by opening up a flap evenly across the bottom of the roast lengthwise (fat cap up, if you haven't trimmed it) then filleting across evenly, in series, "unrolling" the rest of the tenderloin just like you are rolling out a mat, slicing along that same cut lengthwise, keeping your knife precisely parallel to the cutting board.  My roll was a bit thick in places but opened up to about 18 inches long.  You can level out any "bumps" or thick parts with a mallet.  Season both sides with Worcestershire sauce, salt and pepper, roll back up and set aside on a plate.  Meanwhile, prepare the filling.


1 cup baby spinach leaves, chiffonade
1/2 bunch flat leaf Italian parsley, chopped
1/2 bunch basil, chiffonade
2T thyme leaves, chopped
2 shallots, minced
2 large cloves garlic, minced
20 pieces sun dried tomatoes, reconstituted in hot water and minced
6 mushrooms, minced
1 cup ricotta cheese
1 egg, lightly beaten
1/4 - 1/3 cup plain bread crumbs, as needed for binding
Salt and pepper, to taste

Let the ricotta cheese come up to room temperature and blend all ingredients.

PREP

Preheat oven to 450 degrees Fahrenheit.

Unroll the pork tenderloin onto a cutting board; spread the stuffing mixture generously over the roll but keep the last 3/4  inch clean all the way around.  Roll the tenderloin up slowly, applying some tension to eliminate empty pockets.  Leave the flap side down.  Wrap the roast with several turns of twine, pull to form the roll and tie off.

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Wrap the roast with bacon.

Ready for the oven.

ROASTED POTATOES
3-4 white rose potatoes, cut into eighths
Drizzle olive oil
Cracked pepper

Place the rolled roast in an oven-proof pan alongside potatoes.  Drizzle the potatoes with oil and sprinkle with pepper.

Roast at high temp for 10 minutes then reduce heat to 325.  Roast until internal temperature reaches 145 degrees Fahrenheit.  Remove and let rest for 10 minutes.  Slice and serve with the potatoes and pan drippings or whole grain mustard.

Tart and Spicy braised red cabbage

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After more than three weeks of illness and a LOT of work I turn my hand again to my passion.  I love this dish but don't often put in all the sweet components many traditional recipes call for -- preserves, berries, pineapple, the like.  My ONE nod to convention is to include a Granny Smith apple.  I prefer to add more herbs, more vinegar and in this case, fresh jalapeno pepper.

THE RECIPE

1/4 lb sliced bacon (preferably thick-sliced peppered bacon), chopped
1 large onion, diced
2 Jalapeno peppers cored and minced

1 medium Granny Smith apple peeled, cored, chopped
1/3 cup apple cider vinegar
1/4 cup Champagne vinegar
1/4 cup dry red wine

1T dried oregano
1T dried dill leaves
2 bay leaves

Salt and pepper, to taste

1 large head red cabbage, cored and shredded

2 cups chicken stock

Over medium-low flame, brown the bacon pieces.  Add the onion, jalapenos and apple.  Saute until tender, ten minutes.  Add all remaining ingredients except stock.  Cover and reduce heat to low.  When cabbage just starts to wilt (8 minutes) add stock, increase heat and bring to a boil.  Cover, reduce heat to low, and simmer until cabbage is tender, approx. 1 1/2 hours.  Check seasonings; add more salt and pepper if needed, then sprinkle with another heavy dash of Champagne vinegar.

Serve as a warm side dish alongside any protein, or as part of a holiday meal.

Twice - cooked spicy beef with scallion omelet

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LEFTOVERS - the bane of my existence!  Especially when paired with an empty fridge, these are my nemeses.  I am coming out of one stretch of not being home to cook and going into another, SO I challenged myself tonight to work with only what I have here at the house in a quick dish.  The "quick" part is another challenge.

The star ingredient tonight is the last of a London broil which produced some really good french dip sandwiches a couple nights ago (That's the "twice cooked" part).  This was dipped into a chili oil egg wash and stir fried with vegetables in a rich, spicy sauce.  I dropped another egg into the remains of this egg wash with some scallions to make a thin omelet with which to wrap up the ingredients.  I'm very happy with the result, but I created more leftovers.  Oh well, such is life.

THE RECIPE


1/2 pound roast beef (or any other protein, in any quantity you want), julienne sliced
2 eggs
2T Shaoxing wine
Several dashes chili oil (start out with just a little if you are unfamiliar with this ingredient)
3-4T corn starch, more as needed
2 scallions, thinly sliced



1 carrot, matchstick cut
1-2 ribs celery, matchstick cut
1/2 large onion, 1/4 inch slices
4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced on the bias


Corn or peanut oil for frying (approximately 4T)


3 ounces bamboo shoots, julienne sliced


1T dark soy sauce
2T kejap manis (sweet / spicy Indonesian soy condiment)
1T Garam masala curry paste
2T Shaoxing wine
2-3T water, or as needed
1t crushed red chili flakes






Steamed white rice or cooked rice / egg noodles


Heat a wok over a high flame.  Add 2T oil and the first 4 vegetables.  Cook until tender but not mushy.  Remove to a plate and return the pan to heat.



Meanwhile, drop the beef pieces into the egg wash and drain, then dredge in the corn starch.  Add 2T oil the heated wok and fry on all sides.


Add scallions to the egg wash; add another egg if need be.  Whisk and cook in an omelet pan, turning once.  Cut into quarters once cooked and set aside.


When the beef has been fried, add vegetables back to the pan.  Add bamboo shoots and sauce ingredients, one at a time, stirring constantly.  Add as much water as needed to thin them out to the consistency you like.


{This goes against convention for stir fry as we have cooked the protein last, but it was already cooked and we want the corn starch to thicken the sauce.}


Serve the dish beside or over the rice or noodles.  Use the omelet pieces as a wrapper (similar to moo shu).

Roasted Celeriac soup with Chestnut puree

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I'm channeling winter, or at least true fall with an opulent creamed soup topped with an even richer roasted chestnut garnish.  I am attempting to duplicate a soup I had some months back in a restaurant, and it has been a good attempt.

This soup teams up rich, earthy celeriac (celery root) with sweet parsnips, chicken stock, cream and thyme.  Atop this swims a puree of chestnut, sherry and truffle oil.  The three primary ingredients are all roasted; this brings out the warm, woodsy scents and flavors we associate with a hearty fall soup.  I have left the chestnut puree slightly rough to add another texture to the whole dish.

THE RECIPE
2 Quart yield

Preheat oven to 425 degrees Fahrenheit.

3 small bulbs celery root, trimmed and peeled (you may have better luck slicing the peel with a knife rather than a vegetable peeler)
3 large parsnips, peeled

4 oz. pancetta, thick slices or cubed
1/2 small onion, chopped
1 large shallot, chopped
2 stalks celery, chopped
4 cloves garlic, grated

5 cups chicken or vegetable stock
4 sprigs fresh thyme
4 sprigs flat leaf Italian parsley
1 bay leaf
1/2t black peppercorns, coarsely ground with mortar and pestle
 
Sea salt and white pepper, to taste
Dash lemon juice
approximately 1 cup heavy cream
2T cold butter, cut into small pieces

Freshly grated nutmeg, for garnish

Roast celery root for approximately 30 minutes on a sheet pan (the fragrance is incredible!); add parsnips and roast for another 30 minutes.  Remove from the oven, cool and cut into large pieces.  (To save time, roast chestnuts on a lower rack - procedure below.)

While this is in the oven, render fat from the pancetta over low heat in a 3 quart sauce pan.  Saute onion, shallot, celery for 10 minutes; add garlic and saute for another 5 minutes.

MEANWHILE, in another sauce pan, bring stock, thyme, parsley, bay and pepper to a boil and simmer for 20 minutes.  Strain and add stock to the vegetables.  Add the celeriac, parsnips, salt and pepper and simmer for approximately 30 minutes.  Discard the pancetta; add the lemon juice, taste and adjust seasonings.

Prepare the chestnut puree.


ROASTED CHESTNUT PUREE
1 pound chestnuts, plus 8-10 extra pieces (in case of spoiled nuts)

2-3 T dry sherry
1-2 T  white truffle oil
milk and vegetable oil to thin the mixture


Place the chestnuts flat side down on a cutting board.  Carefully slice an X into the rounded side with a sharp knife.  Roast the chestnuts on a sheet pan approximately 15 minutes, until the nut meats are softened.  Do not overcook them, as the inner shells will become tough.  As the chestnuts cook, the shells will burst open.

 Remove from the oven and place in a dish towel; press and roll slightly.  The shells will crackle and open further.  When they have cooled just enough to handle, carefully peel the outer and inner shells and place the nut meats in a bowl.

Soak the nuts in the sherry while the soup is cooking.  Chop the chestnuts in a food processor (yes, I finally broke down and succumbed to one), adding a touch more sherry, truffle and olive oils and some milk to thin the consistency.  Keep some small chunks in the puree.


Cool the soup slightly.  Puree in a blender, adding butter a few pieces at a time.  Pour into a large mixing bowl and swirl in cream until a smooth texture is achieved.  Serve warm, topped with the chestnut puree and garnish with nutmeg.

Cajun Gumbo

 

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This dish has long been a favorite but somehow I have not attempted to make it until now.  So, I've studied up on the subject (as they say, a little knowledge is a dangerous thing) and today I make my attempt.

There is so much rich history to share on the subject of Cajun food; like so many things American, it is a blessed amalgam of many cultures and many generations perfecting it.  I won't go into all of the tradition, but will use and explain a few buzz words along the way as I have gained an education on this subject.  Here's a quick glossary of terms:

GUMBO -- The name of the dish is attributed to American "bastardizing" (go figure) of the Portuguese "quingombo" and the Angolan "Kigombo", both phrases for okra, a staple of the recipe.  There is apparently an ongoing debate among schools of thought whether it is the okra or the file which is the more significant emulsifier of the dish.

Cajun style gumbo incorporates diced tomatoes.  Creole style gumbo uses no tomato, and each uses its own type of spice blend.  Once the roux is prepared there are as many variations as there are Chefs -- there are several standard preparations, however, and I am attempting one with andouille sausage, chicken, shrimp and crab meat.  Seafood gumbo uses variations of fish, shrimp, crab, scallops and even crayfish.

ROUX -- from classic French cookery, which has permeated the Southland since pre-colonial times.  Roux is a 50/50 suspension of fat and flour which is combined over high heat and thickens soups, stews and for our purposes today, gumbo.  Unlike traditional roux which employ butter as the fat, gumbo roux uses vegetable oil - virtually without exception.  No matter the Chef or the recipe, roux is the backbone of any gumbo.

THE "HOLY TRINITY" -- is a takeoff on the classic French mirepoix.  Most Cajun cooking starts with a combination of onion, bell pepper (red or green) and celery.  Often this is backed up with garlic as well.

CAJUN SEASONING -- a mix of seven spices and salt.  Vital to Cajun cooking, and a versatile  blend which can serve as a barbecue rub as well as spice and flavor for many a dish.

GUMBO FILE -- the powdered leaves from the Sassafras tree.  This spice imparts an unusual flavor and serves to thicken soups and sauces.  Native Americans in the South are first attributed with its use.

THE RECIPE
8 Quart yield

1 cup vegetable oil
1 cup all purpose flour

2 large onions, 1/4 inch dice
3 bell peppers, red or green, 1/4 inch dice
4 stalks celery, 1/4 inch dice

1 head garlic, peeled and grated

2 quarts stock (one can use vegetable, seafood, chicken or a quick stock simmered from the shrimp to be used later).  I used seafood stock from a previous project.



SHRIMP STOCK
2 Quarts water
1 1/2 pounds shrimp, whole
1 small onion, quartered
2 ribs celery, leaves attached, coarsely chopped
1 bay leaf
3 sprigs fresh thyme
3 sprigs flat leaf Italian parsley


Remove heads from shrimp; split and peel shrimp.  Remove the tails and sand veins.  Rinse the meat and pat dry.  Set aside.  Place the heads, shells and tails in a 3 quart stock pot with all other ingredients.  Simmer for one hour and replace any evaporated water.  Strain and reserve stock.

 
3/4 cup dry white wine
4 bay leaves
2T dried thyme leaves or chopped leaves from 1/2 bunch fresh
4-5 large tomatoes, peeled and diced OR 1 - 28 oz. can diced tomatoes with juice

1 pound Andouille sausage, 3/4 inch slices (if uncooked, brown slices in a hot skillet, then saute the okra in the rendered fat)
1 pound chicken thigh fillets, 1 inch cubes

1 pound fresh okra pods, 1/4 inch slices on the bias (if you have cooked andouille, saute the slices in a hot skillet with butter)
3T Cajun seasoning - you CAN buy this at the store, but make your own!

CAJUN SEASONING
6T salt
2T cayenne powder
2T paprika
2T white pepper
2T ground black pepper
2T onion powder
2T garlic powder
Mix all ingredients in a bowl and store in an airtight container in your pantry.  Use within 6 months.


1 pound shrimp (if you have not made stock from the heads and shells, peel, remove tails and sand veins - and SAVE THOSE SHELLS in your freezer for future stock) 26 / 30 count are a good size to work with.

3-4 oz. crab meat
1t cayenne powder
1t Worcestershire sauce
1t mustard powder
2T gumbo file

Steamed rice
Minced flat leaf Italian parsley

Heat the vegetable oil in a large stock pot or Dutch oven over medium high flame.  Whisk the flour in slowly and stir constantly.  Keep stirring.  Keep stirring.  Keep stirring.  You want to achieve a rich, reddish brown color.  Here again are two schools of thought.  Some cook the roux to a "peanut butter" color and scent, some to a darker "chocolate".  Mine was somewhere in between.  This took about 25 minutes.

Add the onion, bell pepper and celery; saute approximately 20 minutes, stirring frequently.

Add the wine, bay, thyme and tomato.  Bring to a boil and simmer for 10 minutes.  Add the sausage and chicken, reduce heat and simmer for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. 

Add the okra and Cajun seasoning and simmer for 10 minutes.

Add the shrimp and remaining ingredients and stir for 5 minutes. 

Taste and adjust seasonings to your preference, adding more heat if you wish.  Serve over rice and garnish with minced parsley.

My first attempt, and it was very satisfying -- C'est bon!

The best Chicken Stock you will ever have

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The best stock you will ever have is your own!  You have complete control of all the ingredients, the flavor profile, the salt and the strength.  No mystery or artificial ingredients.

I like stocks with tons of vegetables and herbs which have been simmered for up to 12 hours.  Once I have prepared them I freeze, then defrost, them through a filter to make a pristine, clear product.  It takes a lot of time but it is worth the effort.

Though I have been riding on product I made several months ago, I am fresh out of chicken stock.  It took me four stops and the frustration of seeing two closed produce markets to gather my ingredients today, but as the scent of the simmering stock in its final stages wafts about the house, I have no regrets.

Last year I purchased a 24 quart aluminum stockpot and it is one of my favorite pieces of equipment.  My boss gave me a long-handled spoon which is more oar than utensil, and with these items and a good knife, it's off to the races.

Good stock starts with the best ingredients you can get. 

1. The vegetables: I start with mirepoix (onion, carrot and celery) and add garlic.  Prep for these is simple -- leave the onions unpeeled, and quarter them (cut into 8ths if you are making a smaller batch).  Wash but do not peel the carrots.  If you have bunch carrots with leaves intact, chop those into large pieces and add them.  Use the core, ribs and leaves of the celery.  They add flavor as well.  Cut the carrot and celery on the bias as well as longitudinally to expose as much surface area as possible.  Cut the garlic (unpeeled) laterally once or twice.

As this is an exercise in personal expression, you don't have to stop there.  If you have any vegetable trimmings from any other meals, throw these in. 

2.  The herbs: I like to use fresh thyme, flat leafed Italian parsley, basil, oregano and bay leaves.  Again, feel free to use any others you prefer.

3.  The spices: Salt - a word here.  If you are using iodized salt I IMPLORE you to switch to sea salt, or at least Kosher salt.  You will notice the difference immediately.  Iodized salt tastes like, well, iodine.  I am going to give ranges in the recipe below, but keep two things in mind: the stock will reduce a bit which will intensify the flavors, and while you can always tap a bit more salt into the stock if needed, you can't take it away if you add too much.  Diluting the stock to make it less salty also dilutes the flavor.

Pepper -- whole black peppercorns, or you can crush them coarsely with a mortar and pestle.

4.  The bones: I save all bones from any dish I make.  I also have investors: friends and family save me bones, and therefore I send them stock upon completion.  You've got to give the people what they want!  When it's time for stock, I supplement these with a brick or two of chicken bones from my local Asian market.  This batch used approximately 10 pounds of bones.

5.  The water: Unless you live somewhere with well water or a really great tasting municipal supply, do yourself a favor and use filtered or even distilled water for your stock.

 THE RECIPE

I just finished straining the stock and it has yielded 13 quarts.  I am just about to close the containers and put them into the freezer.

Really, the stock recipe is up to you.  Proportionally, per 2-3 pounds of bones, I would suggest:

2 carrots
2 ribs celery
1 large onion
1/2 head garlic

1/2 bunch each of desired herbs, cut into large segments
3 bay leaves

1T sea salt
1t whole black peppercorns

Water, to cover and add as stock reduces

Multiply this base according to the amount of stock desired and adjust vegetables and herbs to your preference.

Simmer over low flame for at least 6-8 hours, longer if you can.  It is important to not boil the stock, and only stir every 2 hours or so.  This helps to keep the stock as clear as possible.  Keep the stock above 150 degrees Fahrenheit while cooking.

Check and adjust seasonings if necessary prior to cooling.

After cooking, it is important to cool the stock down as quickly as possible.  Place the stock pot into an ice bath (your kitchen sink or a larger pot), strain through a china cap as soon as it is cool enough to work with, pour into smaller storage containers and refrigerate or freeze as soon as it is cool.  I like to work with 1 quart batches.

If you need to use the stock quickly, skim the fat off of the surface once it has cooled, or pour through a colony cup.

THE LONG METHOD

To remove all the solids and fat, there is a time-consuming (see, I'm nothing if not consistent) and true method of clarifying the stock.  Place a basket style coffee filter in a fine mesh sieve over a deep bowl.  Set one block of frozen stock in the strainer.  Keep this contraption in your refrigerator until the stock has defrosted and dripped through the filter.  Refreeze until needed.

A 'tweener seasonal meal

 

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This week has been a roller coaster ride weather wise, with cool to high temperatures, high humidity, then rain on Thursday, the threat of rain yesterday, and today another cool morning and hot afternoon.  Since our micro climates can't make up their collective minds, I declare today fall and am cooking accordingly.

I am putting together some of the elements from today's projects and just a few more.  I am using my homemade butter in a compound topping for my steak and the mushroom confit for a sweet potato filling.  So, tonight's menu --

Bacon wrapped beef tenderloin topped with a jalapeno herb compound butter, baked sweet potato with mushroom confit and sweet and sour braised Savoy cabbage.

I didn't splurge, the tenderloin was on sale.  I wrapped the filets with thick-sliced bacon and seasoned them with sea salt and Worcestershire sauce,

then allowed them to marinate until grilling time.

I took some of the just-made butter and made my steak topping.

{I popped a sweet potato in the oven to bake while I was preparing the rest of the meal.}

JALAPENO HERB COMPOUND BUTTER

6T sweet butter

1/2 shallot, minced

1/2 jalapeno pepper, cored and minced

Leaves from 3 sprigs thyme

Leaves from 3 sprigs flat leaf Italian parsley, finely chopped

Leaves from 2 sprigs basil, finely chopped

dash lime juice

Warm the butter over low flame; add the next 4 ingredients and simmer for 5 minutes.  Add the lime juice, pour into a ramekin and chill in the refrigerator until needed.

For my vegetable, I slowly simmered a head of Savoy cabbage in stock with wine and herbs.

THE OTHER RECIPE

4 cups vegetable stock

2 cloves garlic, grated

1T marjoram leaves

Sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper, to taste

1T granulated sugar

3T apple cider vinegar

3T Marsala wine

1 head Savoy cabbage cut into 1/2 inch strips, large ribs removed

Warm the stock in a 3quart sauce pan.  Add the rest of the ingredients up to the wine, stir, then add the cabbage.  Simmer over medium flame until the cabbage is tender, approximately 30 minutes.  Drain and serve as a hot side dish.

For the rest of the prep, I grilled the tenderloin to medium rare (120 degrees Fahrenheit), topped with the compound butter, fork split the sweet potato and filled with the mushroom confit (warmed) alongside the cabbage.

Mushroom Confit

Confit was originally a means of preserving meats without refrigeration.  It was perfected in France, and today the most recognizable of these preparations is duck.  The meat is slowly cooked in its own rendered fat and a bit of salt, then stored in this fat.  Duck confit is one of the cornerstones of cassoulet - hey, fall is coming - that's a must-make dish for me soon!

Fruit can also be prepared confit (it is preserved in sugar) as well as vegetables, such as I am preparing today.

Of course I have to make a hybrid / crossover dish; I can't leave well enough alone.

We had a surplus of mushrooms at work this week, and our Chef gave some of them to us for our own use; I was inspired to do something out of the ordinary with my portion.  I am pairing the woodsy, earthy flavor of the mushrooms with some of my favorite potherbs and the pleasant mustiness of white pepper.  I am using a little olive oil and equal parts butter and bacon fat for this confit preparation.  I even dropped in a bit of chicken fat (schmaltz!) from parts going into my chicken stock.



THE RECIPE

1 pound mushrooms, white, brown, or a mix of wild mushrooms cut into small slices or dices
3 cloves garlic, grated
2 shallots, minced
2 sprigs fresh basil, chiffonade
Leaves from 5-6 sprigs fresh thyme
1t white pepper
1/2 t sea salt
2T balsamic vinegar
2T red wine
2T Extra Virgin olive oil
3-4 dashes Worcestershire sauce

4T butter, cut into small pieces
1/2 pound thickly sliced pepper bacon
2-3 slices salt pork

Preheat oven to 375 degrees Fahrenheit and lightly oil a small baking dish.  Mix mushrooms, herbs and seasonings in a bowl.

Pour into the baking dish, top with butter and layer with bacon and salt pork.  Bake for one hour.  Stir the mixture and flip over the bacon and salt pork pieces.

Return to the oven and bake for another 30 minutes.  Remove bacon and salt pork, increase oven temperature to 425 degrees Fahrenheit.  Bake for another 20-30 minutes, until sauce is reduced and top layer is caramelized.  Stir and store for future use.

Use this mushroom confit as a soup base or topping for meats, baked potatoes or vegetables (as I will in an upcoming post).

DIY butter

Hello, my readers -- stick with me, as these next few posts tie together.

OK, some of my friends have already heard this - I will NEVER buy butter as long as I have the upper body strength to make my own!  I am an absolute sucker for any recipe I see for do-it-yourself basic ingredients (like this one, or such things as lebne, ricotta, lactic fermentation) and I cannot believe I only twigged on this concept recently.  I would have switched over years ago!

THE RECIPE

1 Pint organic heavy whipping cream

1 pinch salt (OPTIONAL)

That's it!  pure, wholesome, no artificial ingredients or colorings.

You will need a one quart glass or plastic container and about 20 minutes of free time.

Pour the cream into the jar and seal tightly.  Shake.  Shake.  Shake.  Shake.  Change hands.  Shake.  Shake.  Shake.  Shake.

At about the 14 minute mark, when you think you are about to blow out your rotator cuff and shoulder, the cream will attain a whipped state, and you think nothing further will happen.  Keep shaking.  In just a few more minutes, when you are about to chuck the whole thing and go to the store for butter, there will be a POP and the cream will separate.  You will then have about equal parts buttermilk ("clabber") and butter.  Pour off the liquid (it tastes good, if you want to keep it) and rinse the butter with cold water, refreshing in small batches several times until the water runs clear.

If you would like, add a pinch of salt and stir in.  Refrigerate and use within a few days.

Keep this one moving along - spread the word of the DIY revolution!  Take homemade butter to your next dinner party or give as a hostess gift in a small Mason jar.

Dim Sum for lunch -- Tea Eggs

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Dim sum is #2 in my pantheon of favorite Asian foods, right after sushi.  Once in a while, I like to make a couple of these little bites at home.  These tea eggs are extremely simple to make; you just need several hours to do them right.  They are wonderfully fragrant while cooking and they permeate your entire home.  They have a simple, subtle flavor and make a truly great treat or light lunch OR part of a DIY dim sum home menu.

Some years back, I adapted my version from Mai Leung's 1976 Classic Chinese Cookbook.  As you already know, I can't leave well enough alone.  I kicked up some of the flavors and extended the simmer time.  If I can't add more labor to this very simple recipe, I might as well make it take longer!  But truly I think the extra time gives a bit more flavor and helps to more firmly imprint the spiderweb pattern into the eggs.

Tea eggs can be served chilled or at room temp, whole or sliced, but always on their own.  They need no sauce.

THE RECIPE

6 eggs, boiled for 15 minutes then cooled

3 cups warm water
5 t kosher or sea salt
3T black tea leaves (oolong, lychee, jasmine or orange pekoe)1t five fragrance powder
1t dried lemongrass leaves
3T dark soy sauce
1T thin soy sauce, (Aloha shoyu)

Lightly tap the egg shells with the edge of a spoon or table knife; you are trying to pattern the shell with spiderweb cracks.  While the eggs simmer, then soak, they will pick up this pattern and steep in all the flavors of the broth.

Mix all the other ingredients in a 2qt. saucepan.  Gently add the eggs and simmer for 3 hours, adding water if necessary.  Remove from heat, cover and steep at room temperature for at least 2 more hours.  Remove from the pan and shell the eggs.  Serve immediately or chill for future use.

Comforting chicken soup - with an Asian twist

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I'm feeling a bit under the weather today, and also a bit blue, so naturally a nice chicken soup comes to mind (after all, it's the cure for what ails you, no matter what the problem).  I needed some ingredients, and as the super-mega-Asian market is the closest store to the house I thought, "why not spin the traditional recipe, and incorporate some other elements?".  More East meets West; I have high hopes.

I like strong, rich stocks simmered for 10-12 hours with tons of mirepoix vegetables and herbs.  My freezer is currently devoid of chicken stock, so I must start from scratch.  I am making a "quick" stock, then simmering in the rest of the ingredients for the soup.  This recipe picks up some of my favorite Asian flavors while retaining the soul-quenching goodness of homemade chicken soup.  You can go further and add some of your favorite ingredients such as noodles, dumplings, shrimp or other vegetables.

THE RECIPE

For the stock:
One 3-4 pound chicken, rinsed with cold water
Two large onions, quartered
6-8 stalks Chinese celery, leaves included AND the leaves from the rest of the bunch.  Cut these on the bias and also lengthwise to expose the maximum surface area.
3-4 large carrots, quartered on the bias and split lengthwise
6-8 cloves garlic, quartered down the center
1/2 bunch flat leaf Italian parsley, torn into segments
1/2 bunch Asian basil (rau que, hung que), torn into segments
1/4 bunch baby dill, torn into segments
3T dried lemongrass
2/3 T sea salt
2 T freshly cracked black peppercorns
Water to cover (approx. one gallon)

Section the whole chicken with poultry shears or a cleaver.  Remove and discard half the skin.  Place in a large stock pot or Dutch oven.  Add the balance of ingredients and cover with water.  Simmer over a low flame but do not boil.  Stir minimally, only on the half hour and just enough to turn over the ingredients; doing so helps to keep the stock clearer.  Also, keep the stock temperature above 150 degrees Fahrenheit while cooking.

After 90 minutes, remove the chicken parts.  Set aside, cool, remove the meat from the bones.  Return the bones to the pot.  Chop the meat into bite-sized pieces and keep in refrigerator.  Continue to simmer for another 90 minutes.  IF you are pressed for time, and just jonesing for your soup you can skip this additional simmer (but you end up with such good flavor with the extra time investment).

OK, now it's time for soup.

Remove from heat and allow the stock to cool a bit.  Strain through a fine mesh sieve or china cap strainer.  Twice.  Rinse the stock pot and return stock to the pan.  Return to low flame.  Add:

2-3 large carrots, 1/2 inch slices on the bias
2-3 stalks Chinese or western celery, large slices on the bias
1 small onion, large slices
1/2 jalapeno or other hot pepper, minced
3T dark (thick) soy sauce
3T Ketjap manis (Indonesian sweet and spicy reduced soy)
2T shaoxing cooking wine
1T five fragrance spice

Simmer for approximately 30 minutes, then add:

2 medium white rose potatoes, 1/2 inch dice

After approximately 15 minutes, taste and correct seasonings.  Add softer vegetables (I added some fresh green beans) or skip the potatoes and add noodles / dumplings.  Garnish with parsley and shallots; serve with bread or the wonderful cheese popovers from the last post.  Kick back and enjoy your soul therapy!

Gouda and black pepper Popovers

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Baking is less forgiving than many other cooking technologies, and more exacting in its recipes; I like to experiment and thus work in this arena less frequently than others.  I came across a base recipe not long ago which looked delicious and simple and seemed to leave itself open to a bit of interpretation so I gave it a shot.  I used a muffin pan, as I could not find a popover pan.  Some of the popovers came out looking a little funny and I lost some presentation points, but the result was great.

The base recipe appeared recently on Tasting Table ("Gruyere and Black Pepper Popovers").

https://webmail.nethere.net/x/m/view.php?thismailbox=INBOX&index=14115&id=2&actionID=113&mime=3c5a08e259073c342addb7f7ddbe5f40

I found these to be light and airy inside with a crisp exterior.  My attempt came out rich and savory with the addition of a little sweet creamery butter and a touch of smoky paprika and cinnamon.  They really satisfied!

THE RECIPE

1 1/2 cups whole milk
2T sweet butter
3 large eggs
1 1/4 t sea salt
1T smoked paprika
3/4 t freshly cracked black pepper
1/2 t ground cinnamon
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
3 oz. Gouda cheese, cut into 12 cubes (feel free to substitute any other semi soft cheese you prefer)

Preheat oven to 375 degrees Fahrenheit.  Place muffin or popover pan on a lower rack.  Meanwhile, heat the milk and butter over medium flame until warm and the butter has melted. 

Whisk together the eggs and spices until smooth; slowly stir in the hot milk and butter.  Add the flour in small increments and whisk until smooth.

Once the above steps have been completed, pull the pan out of the oven and coat thoroughly with pan release spray.  Pour the batter evenly among the baking cups and top each with a cube of cheese.  Bake at 375 Fahrenheit for 40 minutes.

RESIST the temptation to peek in the oven, or as my Mom would say when she was baking, "For God's sake, don't go stomping around the house, or it will fall!".

Serve the popovers immediately, and don't be afraid to top with some grated cheese or more butter.

Suburban Pate

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I am trying for a hybrid of two styles here.  I've eschewed some of the classic terrine and pate rules and ingredients, and clung to others.  This is not the elegant, cultured liver pate to grace the finest salons, yet not quite the more rustic country pate ("Campanard", essentially a meat loaf, albeit a really, REALLY good one).  It lands somewhere in the middle incorporating my favorite elements of both.  I still kept some of the rich, defining elegant ingredients dearest to me - cream, liver, Cognac and capers, and I believe I have achieved a touch of the rustic texture by blending ground meat with the liver.

The baking dish is lined with bacon slices (as if we didn't already have enough fat in the dish) which serve both to keep the pate from drying out and add a wonderful finishing touch to the presentation.  After cooling, the pate is pressed into the pan for its final shape.

Fat, Cognac, baked meat wrapped in bacon -- what's not to love?  Feel free to express yourself and let me know how you interpret this dish.

THE RECIPE

2# ground pork
1/2# pork liver
1/2# chicken livers
1/2# pork fat (I used bacon ends and pieces - These add a nice smoky flavor, and you will not need to add as much salt if you go this route)
2T dried thyme leaves
2T sea salt (I used alderwood smoked salt)
1 1/2t freshly cracked pepper

1 small onion, diced
1 medium shallot, diced
3 large cloves garlic, crushed
1t capers, drained
2T cold butter


2T flat leaf Italian parsley, minced
1 large egg, beaten slightly
1T dry Sherry
3T Cognac
1/2 Cup bread crumbs
1/2 Cup heavy cream

1 1/2 pounds thickly sliced bacon

Place the ground pork in a food processor and pulse briefly, just enough to break the meat down a bit.  Remove and drop in the liver and pulse again, until it is blended and smooth.  Scrape all the meat into a large mixing bowl and stir in thyme, salt and pepper.

Place the onion, shallot, garlic and capers into food processor and pulse until finely minced.  Add the butter and pulse.  Add to the meat mixture.  Add the next 6 ingredients to the bowl and fold together.  Allow the mixture to rest for approximately 15 minutes.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit.  Set rack one level up from the bottom rung.


Line a 9" X 5" loaf (bread) pan with the bacon slices, perpendicular to the long sides of the pan (FLUB on my part, in that as often happens the volume of the product got away from me and I had to stretch the bacon between two pans.  This has been corrected in the ingredients listed above).

Scoop the pate into the loaf pan and smooth down with a spatula.  Cover with the ends of the bacon and more strips if necessary.  Place the pan in a deep roasting / baking dish and pour boiling water up to 2/3 the height of the loaf pan.

Cover the loaf pan tightly with foil and set the roasting pan on the lower rack of the oven.  Bake for approximately 1 hour 45 minutes, until the internal temperature reaches 160 degrees Fahrenheit.  Remove the loaf pan and cool for a bit on a rack.  Re-wrap the loaf pan with a piece of plastic wrap and a piece of foil atop it.  Use a heavy piece of cardboard cut to fit the top of the loaf pan OR another pan the same size to press the pate down.  Add a brick or several heavy cans to increase the weight.  Refrigerate overnight; you can prepare the pate up to 4 days ahead of time.

When it is time for service, remove the loaf pan from the refrigerator and place in hot water up to the 2/3 level on the pan for approximately 5 minutes.  Invert the pan onto a serving plate.  Remove the excess fat which has accumulated, garnish and slice into 1/2 inch thick pieces.

Serve this pate at room temperature with plenty of crackers, rustic Ciabatta bread slices, dijon and whole grain mustard and pickles (sweet and dill).  Voila!

"Beefed up" Oxtail Barley soup

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It's close enough to Fall for me to think about a hearty soup - one of my favorite types of food.  I didn't get around to Vichychoisse or Gazpacho while it was hot (too busy), and split pea soup doesn't happen until the first rainy day of winter, but really isn't any time a good time for soup?

I woke up today craving oxtail soup (which is really beef) and thinking also how to improve upon the last batch I made -- MORE BEEF and more vegetables is what I came up with. I like to use mirepoix vegetables to kick up the strength of the stock; a dash of Worcestershire sauce, tomatoes and a little sherry give the soup a a touch of sweetness and a smooth, rich flavor.  I've used my homemade beef stock, added stew meat, carrots and fresh green beans at the finale.  This preparation ends up somewhere between a soup and a stew as the vegetables and barley break down and thicken the stock.  Finally, it seems a dash of balsamic vinegar just "Mediterraneanizes" a dish, somehow...

You can prep this a day ahead of time if you wish; like most soups / stews the flavors will meld and improve overnight.

THE RECIPE

Approximately 3# Oxtails
Approximately 1# Beef stew meat, 1/2 inch dice
1T Extra Virgin olive oil
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper for seasoning the beef
1t Worcestershire sauce

One large onion, medium dice
2 carrots, small dice
2 celery ribs, near the heart including leaves, small dice
4 large cloves garlic, grated
Sea salt and pepper for the soup, to taste
2T dry sherry
5 Cups beef stock
1 1/2 t dried marjoram leaves or 1t minced fresh leaves
1 1/2 t dried oregano leaves or 1t minced fresh leaves  (if using fresh leaves on these two herbs, add at the halfway point in cooking)
4 Bay leaves

1 cup pearled barley (added at the halfway point.  If using slow-cook barley, add at the beginning.)

4 carrots, 1/2 inch slices on the bias
14oz. can crushed tomatoes with juice

1/4 bunch Italian flat leaf parsley, heavy stems removed, minced

1/2# fresh green beans, cut in half
1T aged balsamic vinegar

Additional minced parsley, for garnish

Season both sides of the oxtails and stew meat with salt, pepper and Worcestershire sauce; heat oil in a large Dutch oven over medium high flame.

Brown the oxtails on all sides; remove then brown the stew beef.  Remove stew beef and set aside.

Add the onion, carrot, celery and garlic; sweat these in the fat and juices rendered from the beef for about 8 minutes.  Deglaze the pan with sherry.  Stir well, and add the beef, stock, herbs and season with salt and pepper.  Simmer for 1 hour.  Add the barley, carrot slices and tomatoes.  Simmer for 30 minutes more.  Add the Italian parsley.  Taste and adjust seasonings if needed. At the 2 hour mark, check the beef for tenderness.  If done, remove the oxtails, add beans to the pot and turn off the heat.  Finish with the balsamic vinegar and cover completely.

Allow the oxtails to cool and pull the meat off the bones.  Chop into small pieces and return the meat to the soup.  Stir and serve in bowls, garnish with parsley and hearty bread.  This preparation is reminiscent of Eastern European recipes, with my added touches.  Enjoy!

Chicken fried Liver and Onions

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Eew!  Yuck!  Gross!  OK, OK, get it ALL out of your system now.  Ready?  When you've finished with all the histrionics we will proceed.

Remember what your mother said, "eat your liver!  It's good for you!"..."there are starving kids in *Africa, India, China* who would love to have that (OK, Mom - give it to them!)"...or, "so help me, if you don't stop calling the Belgian Embassy to report your own kidnapping from the Royal Family by Gypsies" (oh, wait, that was MY mom).

For those of you who were adults about the title of this post, I thank you.  Just bear with me.  Maybe have an open mind.  Anyway, this is another re-invention of a standard.  I've craved comfort food lately, and haven't had liver and onions for a while.  It's good protein, and a great source of iron.

I thought this dish would be good and I was pleasantly rewarded.  I don't know if KFC will be suing for patent infringement (mine only has 5 herbs and spices) but it fried up a beautiful golden brown with a crunchy texture.  I've set it atop a bed of sauteed onions, and smothered it with a simple white onion gravy. 

The liver is double breaded with an egg wash in between and dropped into frying oil (320 - 350 degrees Fahrenheit).  Check the texture of the liver steaks by pulling back on a thick corner to avoid overcooking (which is PROBABLY why some of you didn't like liver as kids!).  So dive in and give it a shot!

THE RECIPE

1 very large onion, sliced 1/8th in. thick, rings separated
1/2t cumin powder
Salt and pepper, to taste
2T butter
2T extra virgin olive oil

Over medium high flame, melt butter and add oil.  Sautee the onions and season.  Continue to cook until soft, approximately 8-10 minutes.  Set on plate(s) in oven set on warm.  Meanwhile, prepare the liver.

1# beef liver
Vegetable oil for frying

1 1/2 Cups all-purpose flour
1T smoked paprika
1T dried oregano leaves
1t cumin powder
Sea salt (I used an alder wood smoked salt) and freshly ground pepper, to taste

1 Cup buttermilk
1 egg
3-4 dashes chipotle Tabasco sauce

Pat the liver dry with paper towels and set aside on a plate.  In a wide, shallow dish, whisk together flour and seasonings.  In a separate dish, whisk together buttermilk, egg and Tabasco sauce.

Heat oil in a pan to a depth of 1/2 in. over high flame.  Bring to 320-350 degrees Fahrenheit.  Dredge the liver steaks in the seasoned flour; dip into the egg wash and dredge a second time in the flour.  Press the breading onto the surface of the liver.  Set aside on a platter.  Repeat until all the pieces are breaded.  When the oil has reached temperature, carefully set the steaks in to fry.  Cook approximately 2-3 minutes per side until golden brown and cooked throughout.  Check doneness with a thermometer (160 F) or by visual sampling.  Remove from the pan and drain on paper towels on a platter.  Transfer to the heated plate on top of the onions.

During this process, start the gravy.

1/2 bunch scallions sliced; white and light green pieces for the gravy and dark green pieces for garnish
2-3T butter
2-3T flour
1 Cup whole milk
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Heat the butter and scallions over a medium high flame; slowly whisk in the flour.  Stir for approximately 1 minute.  Add the milk in small increments.  When you have achieved a thick sauce, season with salt and pepper and pour over the fried liver.  Garnish with the scallion leaves.

I'm telling you, if you do not overcook this, you can't tell the difference in texture between these and recipes using round steak, and the flavor is richer!

Charro beans -- a faithful sidekick

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Of course, with the puerco adovada from the previous post, we will need some beans.  I am preparing simple charro (also known as "cowboy") beans.  These beans, like so many other recipes, are subject to individual interpretation in terms of heat and "must have" ingredients.  Dress up or down the recipe as you wish, but the common elements in most versions are onion, garlic, chili pepper, tomato and cilantro.  These beans are simmered and served whole.

I always use a cured pork product to start my beans.  It can be anything, such as a ham hock, fried bacon, ham pieces / bone, salt pork or pork belly.  Why?  Because that's the way Mom did it.  OK, also because it adds a nice smoky flavor.  If you use this tip, go easy on the salt; the salt from these products leaches into the beans as they simmer.  With salt pork or cured pork belly you may even opt to skip any salt until the beans have simmered for an hour or so.

Other than this, do what you like: use mild or hot peppers, add chili powder or other herbs.  I also use these as my recipe for refried beans, reducing or removing most of the liquid.  I then mash the beans leaving 1/4 whole and add LARD, yes LARD (3T heated just to the point of smoking per pound of beans) in small increments.

One can omit the meat for a completely vegetarian preparation.

Sort through the beans to remove any debris and soak in water overnight, covered with a dish towel.  Prior to cooking, drain the soaking water.  As I started a bit late today, I used the quick soak method, soaking for 2 hours and keeping them just below a rolling boil until done.

Charro beans can be garnished with cheese, onion, avocado, sour cream, cilantro, salsa -- go nuts!  Serve them with plenty of warm tortillas beside your favorite entree.

THE RECIPE

1 pound dried pinto beans, soaked
Water, to cover
1 medium onion, diced
4 oz. cured pork or one smoked ham hock
3 cloves garlic, crushed and minced
2 jalapenos, divided -- one cut 1/2" from stem to tip left whole, and one minced
salt, to taste
1T dried oregano leaves
2 bay leaves
1t baking soda
2T cilantro leaves chopped, heavy stems removed
1 large tomato, diced

Place pinto beans into a 2Qt. saucepan, add water to cover.  Add all other ingredients except cilantro and tomato.  Bring to a boil, reduce heat, partially cover and simmer until beans are tender (1.5 - 2 hours).

Add only as much water as may be needed during cooking to replace evaporated liquid.  After one hour of cook time, remove the meat.  Adjust seasonings as needed.  When beans are tender, add cilantro, diced jalapeno and tomato; simmer 15 minutes more.  Serve in bowls; garnish as desired.