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Sunday, November 27, 2011

Maple Buttermilk Pie - Three Variations

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Trio of lovelies.
Those who know me best realize I'm not really a dessert guy, and baking is usually my weakest skill.  So I welcomed the recent challenge when asked to bring a dessert to this year's Thanksgiving celebration.

The basic recipe is incredibly simple, especially if you purchase prefab pie crusts (this year I had to, based on time) - and yields a silky, rich, firm custard textured confection.  After seeing a recipe online, the concept stuck with me, as well as working out the variations (I have one more percolating, but that's another post to come).  The base recipe used is from Epicurious via the What's Cooking blog, as well as a trick picked up from Vintage Mixer, and I wish to credit these sources first.

Again, if you know me I can't leave well enough alone - and everything is better with bacon.

THE RECIPE

VARIATION I: MAPLE BUTTERMILK PIE (with Bourbon)

1 pie crust (yes, I promise to make my own in the next project).

At this point, I must acknowledge the absolute superiority of my friend Beth Ward in producing both pie crusts and pies in general - so she tells me.

1/4 cup all-purpose flour
6 large egg yolks
3 T palm sugar (I ground this with a mortar and pestle, then granulated with a spice mill.)  White or brown granulated sugar can substitute for this.
1/4 t salt

2 cups buttermilk, shaken
2/3 cup maple syrup
1 1/4 oz. Bourbon whiskey
1 t vanilla

Preheat oven to 325° Fahrenheit.

Gently whisk together first four ingredients.  Add the remaining four, and blend to a smooth consistency.  Place the crust in a pie tin on the center rack of the oven and gently pour in the filling (leave a 1/2 in. wash level below the crust - reserve any extra filling for the next trick).  Bake for approximately 30 minutes.

At this point, cover the crust with a foil ring (using a piece of aluminum foil folded over, cut out a circle and wrap around the edge of the crust to prevent over browning; that's the trick from Vintage Mixer)


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and return to the oven.  Bake for approximately 20 minutes longer, or until the center of the pie is set.  Cool the pie on a wire rack.  Serve with whipped cream or a drizzle of chocolate.


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VARIATION II: MAPLE BUTTERMILK PIE (with bacon)

1# thick-cut bacon, cooked at 300° until crisp, cooled and diced
(3-4 slices should take care of this project)

1 recipe of the base filling above
Place one layer of diced bacon in the bottom of the pie crust.


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Follow directions for Variation I above.


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Use good-quality smoked bacon and avoid using maple bacon for this recipe.  This will give the dish a  rich, smoky flavor without too much sweetness.


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VARIATION III: MAPLE BUTTERMILK "FLAN" WITH FRESH THYME

This is another thought I had, when the first pie I made came up with a little extra volume; I poured it all in the crust anyway, and it swelled up past the level of the pan then collapsed, cracking as it fell.  SO, I learned about the wash level on the crust.  But, what to do with this orphaned remaining goodness?  Read on.

Approximately 1 cup of of the recipe above, Variation II - more or less based on your results
leaves from 2 sprigs thyme, minced
1t white granulated sugar per serving (this example yielded two portions)

Spray the interior of the ramekins with pan release.  Sprinkle the sugar in the bottom of the ramekin and shake to distribute evenly.  Pour the bacon custard into the ramekins.  Place in a baking pan with hot water 2/3 of the way up the side.  Bake on an upper rack above the pie.  Check periodically - these were set after approximately 40 minutes and just started to pull away from the sides and rise like a souffle.


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Cool for 10 minutes; run a butter knife around the inside of the ramekin and invert onto a plate for service.  The top will be crusted with a hint of light caramel.  Garnish with another thyme sprig.


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Tuesday, October 25, 2011

Wine Braised Lamb Shanks

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I am always amazed at the spectacular results yielded by the simplest of ingredients and the application of a little (well, a lot of) time, on the humblest cuts of meat.  Braising is a set-and-forget technique; once you have your prep done you can go about your day while the dish cooks itself, presenting a luscious amalgam of mirepoix vegetables, classic potherbs and wine.  Just check and adjust the seasonings from time to time, and enjoy a fine, fork-tender meal in the evening.

It's not quite fall weather today, but I'm after comfort food.  I am plating these beauties up with simple mashed potatoes and red chard sauteed with a little garlic.

This is my take on the restaurant dish I learned from Chef Reinhard Dorfhuber; PUT AWAY your mint jelly, and DON'T call the savory reduction sauce "gravy"!  These were two of his pet peeves, and I loved watching him turn beet red at the mere mention of these things while he was implementing his recipe in our store.

THE RECIPE

2 T EV olive oil
4 lamb shanks
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
6 cloves garlic, minced
1 large onion, diced
3 carrots, diced
3 ribs celery, minced with tops
2 large shallots, minced

1 28 oz. can petite diced tomatoes or 2.5 # peeled and diced fresh tomatoes
fresh rosemary leaves, minced (start with 2 T)
fresh thyme leaves, minced (start with 2T)
3-4 bay leaves

1 bottle (750 ml.) dry red wine
1 cup beef stock (or lamb, if you have it on hand)
Worcestershire sauce, to taste

corn starch / roux as needed
1 T balsamic vinegar

Season the lamb shanks with salt and pepper.  Heat a heavy stock pot over medium flame, add oil and brown the lamb shanks thoroughly on all sides.  Set aside and saute the vegetables until translucent, approximately 10 minutes.  Add the lamb shanks, tomatoes, herbs, stock, wine and Worcestershire sauce.  The braising liquid should cover the lamb shanks; add more stock if needed.  Season with a bit more salt and pepper, bring to a low simmer.  Cover the pot loosely to allow steam to escape and reduce flame to low.

Continue to braise until the meat is fall-off-the-bone, fork tender, at least 6-8 hours.  Hold the lamb shanks to keep warm; strain the braising liquid to remove the solids.  Return to heat and reduce; thicken as needed, splash with balsamic vinegar and serve over the shanks.

Sunday, September 18, 2011

Lion's head braised Chinese meatballs - two ways


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I've loved this dish since I first discovered it in Mai Leung's Classic Chinese Cook Book several years ago.  That was the first time I'd heard of it, and over time I have modified to suit my taste.

Today I modified things to suit the market (and my pantry).

These meatballs are a natural comfort food; they simmer in a savory stock studded with cabbage and mushrooms which can be made into either a thick sauce, or served as a soup.  I'm sharing both with you today.  The backbone is simple ground pork; the store only had completely lean pork available so I have added 75 / 25 ground beef to add a bit of fat.  The result was a bit loose, and the meatballs turned out a bit more like polygons, but the flavor was fantastic.

The wilted cabbage leaves are said to resemble the mane of a lion; with a little creative license it works out fine.

THE RECIPE

FOR THE MEATBALLS:

1# ground pork
1# ground beef, 75 / 25 fat
1 can water chestnuts (or fresh); minced
1 can bamboo shoots (or fresh); minced
One 2in. length fresh ginger root, peeled and minced
4 scallions, minced
4 T black (thick) soy sauce
3 T cornstarch
2 T shaoxing cooking wine
2 T sesame oil
1 T granulated sugar
1 T ground white pepper
1 t minced garlic
1 t five spice powder
3-4 drops chili oil
1 egg
Corn oil for frying

Mix above ingredients in a bowl, enough to blend but do not overmix.  Form 8-10 balls and set aside on a plate.

FOR THE STIR FRY

1 head Napa cabbage
6 dried Shiitake mushroom slices
Corn oil for stir frying

4 cups chicken of beef stock

Salt, to taste

3 scallions, minced

Remove 3-4 outer leaves and set aside.  Reconstitute the mushrooms in hot water, approximately 30 minutes.  Core the cabbage and shred lengthwise into 1 inch strips.  Drain the mushrooms and press out excess water; dice and reserve the liquid.

VERSION 1 - LION'S HEAD IN SOUP

Heat a wok; add a bit of oil and brown the meatballs all over; remove and set aside.

(Click on image for larger view) Fresh from the wok.
Return the wok to heat; add the mushrooms and cabbage and wilt slightly.  Add the mushroom liquid and simmer 3-5 minutes.

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Transfer to a Dutch oven.  Add the meatballs and stock;

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cover with the whole cabbage leaves.


Bring to a boil; cover and simmer over low flame for 50 minutes.

(Click on image for larger view) Just done; here is the "mane".
Check the stock and adjust seasoning as desired.  For each portion, place some of the vegetables on the bottom of a bowl.  Add a meatball or two, garnish with one of the whole cabbage leaves on the side (to form the "mane") and scallions.

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VERSION 2 - LION'S HEAD IN SAUCE

1 - 2 cups braising liquid from the main casserole
1 T Shaoxing cooking wine
1 t light (thin) soy sauce
1 t Chinkiang (black) vinegar

2 T cornstarch
&
2 T cold water, blended to form a slurry

Steamed rice
scallions, minced

In small saucepan, heat the first four ingredients.  Slowly add the cornstarch in increments.  Whisk the sauce as it thickens.  For each portion, place rice in a bowl; add some vegetables, a meatball and pour heated sauce over.  Garnish with scallions.

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Don't forget the Sriracha hot sauce as well!

Sunday, September 11, 2011

Dim sum for dinner - "Kicked up" pork and vegetable congee

(Click on image for larger view.)  A little of everything in a rich, homemade stock.
Since our recent heat wave is at an end, I declare it time for soup.  I could not make it to dim sum this morning, so here we are with the next best thing.

This soup is a delicacy wheeled around on the special cart in Chinese restaurants - the one with the steaming mystery cauldrons which sends the most delicate scents wafting about the room; the one for which I hold off tucking into all the shumai and har gow and char siu bau (well, at least I try to).  I've always wanted to make this, and it occurs to me I have several quarts of pork stock which are just begging to be used up.

While it is most often served for breakfast, congee (rice porridge) is great any time of day, and is even good for an upset stomach and special diets.  It can be toned down as a food for babies and even for folks who are under the weather; it's a great recovery food.  Like so many soups, it is also a great way to use up leftovers.

It is truly a comfort food, but can be treated as a blank canvas for individual interpretation (that's the part I like).  The backbone is a good stock (ALWAYS a favorite for me) and good quality white rice - I am using Calrose for this batch.  Just about any protein or vegetable can be used, and it is SO easy to prepare I'm kicking myself for not making this sooner!

Typically congee has a mild flavor profile.  Of course, I can't leave well enough alone, so I have used LOTS of vegetables and just a touch of heat to finish the dish off.

THE RECIPE

1 cup rice (white or brown) medium grain

8 quarts stock (I used pork)
2 ribs celery, minced
1 large onion, diced
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 carrots, thinly sliced
1/2 cup shiitake mushrooms, sliced
1 dash corn oil

1 cup shredded pork

3-4 scallions, sliced bulbs and leaves separated

ground white pepper, to taste
sea salt, to taste

Sesame oil
Chili oil
soy sauce

Soak rice in cold water for at least 30 minutes; rinse and drain.

Bring stock to boil; add stock, vegetables, rice and oil.  Reduce to simmer.  Reduce until stock has thickened and ingredients have softened, approximately 30 minutes.  When a thick consistency has been reached add scallion bulbs, season with salt and pepper, stir in pork and heat through.

Garnish with scallion green slices, sesame and chili oils, and soy if desired.  Serve piping hot.

**NOTE: if you are not familiar with these two oils, be cautious!  They both have very strong flavors; add just a drop or two and taste from there.**

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Monday, August 1, 2011

Curried Lamb "Lo mein"

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Rarely will you see the words, "quick" or "simple" on this blog; it's just not in me, but this is an exception.  So often I get home past the time where I even want to cook and think I'll do without, then later just end up eating badly.  Hence the need, as always, for quick dishes.  This may not be the most healthy, but I had to do it.

I love the variety and value at the local Asian markets, and quick components are easy to find.


My thoughts were first to work out a simple lo mein (protein, vegetables and noodles) until turning the corner onto the aisle with the curries.  That got the ball rolling, and thus a fusion dish with Chinese, Thai and Korean elements resulted.

The consistency is not extremely saucy, rather more like a sopa seca, this was intentional; but you can easily just add more liquid and emulsify with some corn starch if you wish.  I ended up using the whole tin of spicy Phaenang curry and it brought the heat - taste and use only as much as you can take if you try this one!
THE RECIPE

2 T corn or peanut oil for frying
1/2 # lamb, thinly sliced against the grain
2 shiitake mushrooms, sliced (I used dried slices)
2 carrots, shredded
1/2 medium onion, thinly sliced
2 cloves garlic, grated
10-12 slices bamboo shoots matchstick cut (I used the chili & sesame marinated style; you HAVE to try these if you like spicy foods.)
1 bunch sliced scallions, white ends and leaves separated
2 large ribs bok choy, thinly sliced including leaves

1/4 cup curry paste, red or green (more to taste); I used 1/2 cup of red curry and I'm breathing fire but it's SOO good!
1/4 cup water (flex according to your taste)
2 T Shiaoxing wine or sake
2 T Chinese black vinegar
1/2 t ginger powder
1/2 t gochugaru, or other chile powder
2-3 dashes thin soy sauce

1 gallon boiling water
1 # chow mein or other stir fry noodle

crushed red chile flakes, if desired

Heat a wok over high flame; bring water to a boil in a large pot.

Swirl some oil into the wok and sear the lamb; if using reconstituted mushrooms, add these at the same time.  Set aside and reserve.  Stir fry the remaining vegetables, giving the bok choy just a minute.  Return the lamb and combine all ingredients by tossing.

Dip the noodles into the boiling water and cook according to instructions.  Drain and rinse with cold water.

Add the sauce ingredients and a final splash of oil.  As noted above this is fairly dry; if you want to have more of a sauce just add more water and wine, and thicken with equal parts corn starch and water.  Add a portion of noodles equal to the volume in the wok and stir fry, "pulling through" the noodles and mixing in the lamb and vegetables.  Serve garnished with scallion leaves and chile flakes, if desired.

Yield 2 portions as an entree or 4 if a side dish

Thursday, July 28, 2011

Spam Musubi

As always, my take on the original.

Click on image for larger view.  Sandwich style musubi.
Those of you who know me best understand my life-long love affair with Spam, and especially since my one and only trip to Hawaii the obsession I've had with this product.  Musubi is a variant on sushi, with crispy fried Spam in Teriyaki style sauce and sushi rice all bundled up in toasted nori.  It is best served with the Spam right out of the pan and the rice still warm; however it is the ultimate picnic food and travels well.

I have just taken delivery of my new press (purchased online from Amazon)

Click on image for larger view.  $9.95 on Amazon.
and had to experiment right away.  The rice patties can be formed by hand OR within the Spam can if you cut the bottom away with a can opener - and watch out for the edges (thank you Biggie for this tip).

THE RECIPE

SUSHI RICE

2 cups sushi or Calrose rice (short grain, sticky rice)
2 1/2 cups water
4 T seasoned rice vinegar
1/2 t granulated sugar

Rinse the rice in a fine mesh sieve until the water runs clear.  Add water and bring to boil; simmer over low heat for 20 minutes.  Remove from heat and let stand for 15 minutes.  Transfer to a glass bowl and add vinegar and sugar.  Stir thoroughly and fan with rice paddle.  Stir every few minutes until cooled.



FRIED SPAM

One can Spam, sliced into 8 pieces

2 T kecap manis (Indonesian sweet / spicy soy sauce)
2 T mirin (sweetened cooking sake)
1/2 t ground ginger
1/4 t ground white pepper

Heat a large skillet over medium high flame; spray quickly with pan release.

Mix seasonings in a small bowl and pour over the spam slices after 3 minutes cook time.



Turn the slices and cook another 3 minutes.

Turn to coat evenly with the sauce mixture.



Remove and reserve on a plate.

4 sheets roasted sushi nori, cut to fit the mold (works out to two pieces per sheet)

Furikake (rice seasoning), to taste


small bowl of water for prep

SANDWICH STYLE MUSUBI

Lay out a piece of nori on a flat surface; center the press perpendicular to the wrapper.



Wet your fingers and fill the mold halfway with sushi rice.  Moisten the bottom of the press lid and press onto the nori.  Sprinkle with a bit of furikake.



Add a slice of Spam; sprinkle with more furikake

Click on image for larger view; almost ready.


and fill the press with rice.  Wet the lid and press well.
 

Remove frame and slide lid off the rice;

bring up the nori ends, wet the trailing edge of the wrapper and press to seal.  Invert onto a serving platter.  Serve warm or cool, or wrap and refrigerate for tomorrow's lunch.



CLASSIC STYLE MUSUBI

Follow all previous steps up to the formation.  Fill the press 3/4 with rice, press with lid.  Sprinkle with furikake; add Spam, bring up nori ends, wet the trailing edge of the wrapper and press to seal.

Click on image for larger view -- traditional preparation.
Serve warm or cool, wrap and refrigerate for tomorrow's lunch.

Aloha!

Saturday, July 23, 2011

Barbeque Pork Kreplach Soup

I live for irony; I love the irreverent blending of the sacred and the profane.  I'm just wired that way.

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This dish is dedicated to my friend, Robin Drubin.  I've been wanting to make something like this for some time, and after last night's batch of puerco adovado failed to be as spicy as I'd hoped, I decided to finish it off with some Phil's BBQ sauce and go in this direction.

Kreplach soup is a traditional Jewish dumpling, very simply prepared with a minimum of ingredients served in a clear chicken stock, with or without vegetables.  Usually the filling is chicken, beef or lamb, onion and salt.  But I can't leave well enough alone.

I have several quarts of my clarified chicken stock, and am finishing it with some carrots, onion and the hearts of the Napa cabbage from my previous post.

L'chaim!

Perhaps I will work on an Indian beef dish next week!

THE RECIPE

KREPLACHS

1 pkg. prepared dumpling skins

I am employing a cheat here, and using gyoza wrappers and a dumpling press for the kreplachs.

Press-to!  And infamy is mine!  Click on image for larger view.

Newly formed; click on image for larger view.

The traditional wrapper is simply flour, egg, water and a pinch of salt, kneaded into a stiff dough and rolled out to paper thin squares.  Cook the kreplachs in boiling water, and warm in the stock.

KREPLACH FILLING

 2# pork shoulder, cubed into 1 in. pieces
1 large onion, chopped
3 cloves garlic, minced
2 jalapeno peppers, chopped
3 T smoked paprika
3 t New Mexico chile powder
1 T cumin powder
1/2 cup water

1 t crushed red pepper
Sea salt and cracked black pepper, to taste

2-3 T barbeque sauce

1/2 cup water to seal the wrappers

Boiling water, reduced to simmer
1 T oil

Place all the ingredients up to the water in a crock pot; cook on high for 5.5 hours.  Add the crushed pepper and season with salt and black pepper.  Cook for another 1/2 hour.  Cool, drain off all fat and stir to shred the pork.  Stir in the barbeque sauce and reserve until needed.

Add approximately 1 t filling to each dumpling skin; wet one half of the wrapper and press.  Seal corners together if desired.  Drop into simmering water and simmer until cooked, 5-6 minutes.

THE STOCK

8 cups chicken stock
3 carrots, 1/8 inch coin cut
1/2 large onion, thinly sliced
2 cups sliced cabbage
1 bunch sliced scallion bulbs

Simmer the carrots in stock for 15 minutes; add onion and cabbage.  Simmer for another 10 minutes.  Ladle vegetables and stock into individual bowls.  Gently transfer the dumplings to serving bowls and garnish with the scallions.

Stir-fried beef with yam noodles in soju coconut cream sauce

This is another East meets West, Amer-Asian experiment.

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I've apparently sat on the wheat noodles I picked up at the Vietnamese store too long and they are unusable, SO I went to the Korean store for a replacement - yam noodles.  I've cut up thinly sliced eye of round steak into matchsticks and worked up a spicy sauce based on my favorite Asian liquor - soju.  If you are not familiar with this product, it is very distinctive - it has been described to me as similar to gin; that analogy holds for a bit.  Soju is distilled from grain (often rice), sweet potato and tapioca.  I've infused this with lemongrass, ginger, garlic and scallions and mellowed it out with coconut milk then swirled in the yam noodles over the beef and shredded vegetables.

THE RECIPE

SOJU SAUCE
One small bottle (200ml) soju, preferably Jinro brand
One inch ginger, matchstick cut
1 T dried lemongrass
4 cloves garlic, sliced
One bunch scallion ends, cut 1/4in. up from the root

7 oz. (1/2 can) coconut milk

2 t corn starch
2 t cold water, more of both as needed

Infuse the soju with the first four ingredients;

Dried lemongrass, ginger and onion steeping in the soju.

keep on low flame until reduced just under half its volume, approximately 20 minutes.  Strain through a fine mesh sieve and reserve.  Warm the coconut milk over low flame, add the seasoned soju and as much of the corn starch mixture as needed to achieve a thickened sauce.  Set aside.

STIR FRY
2-3 T corn or peanut oil for frying
1# thinly sliced beef
2 carrots, grated
2 ribs celery, matchstick cut
1/2 onion, thinly sliced
1 cup Napa cabbage leaves, shredded
2 cloves garlic, grated
1 jalapeno pepper, thinly sliced
1 bunch scallion leaves, slivered
1T kecap manis (Indonesian sweet / spicy soy sauce)

1# yam noodles, drained and cut into 1/3rd pieces
1/2 t furikake, for garnish

Heat a wok over high flame; add oil and sear beef.  Remove and reserve; bring pan back to heat and quickly cook vegetables.  Return beef to pan; flip to heat, add noodles, kecap manis and heat through.

Swirl in sauce and heat until ingredients are coated.  Serve immediately garnished with the furikake.

Sunday, July 3, 2011

Mesquite-grilled rib eye steak with brie sauce

(Click on image for larger view) Finished product, vegetables just off the grill.

Here am I with a rare summer day off, and grilling season is open.  I am not as practiced on the grill as I should be, so I approach these projects with enthusiasm - and some trepidation.

I blame today's overindulgence on the supermarkets with their 50% off meat sale, and their 3-inch thick cut steaks in the meat case.  I locked onto one, and suddenly I was Mike Myers in Wayne's World..."oh, yes...it will be mine..."

How to make it more decadent? you may ask  (OK, maybe that was me.) - the answer is simple - MORE FAT.  Oh, and tons of freshly ground black pepper.  A splash of Cognac can't hurt, either.

I paired this steak up with grilled vegetables and skin-on white rose potatoes; bonus round -- after searing the steak, I finished it up on indirect heat and seared my sides directly over the mesquite coals in a cast-iron grilling basket.

THE RECIPE

Rib Eye (or your favorite) steak, brought to room temperature

Worcestershire sauce, sea salt, Tabasco and freshly cracked ground black pepper to taste.

Season the steak on both sides, turning every 20 minutes until grilling time.  Sear over hot coals then set on the opposite side of the grill until you reach your preferred temperature, then let rest for 10 minutes.  While the steak rests, start the sauce.



BRIE SAUCE

3-4 slices thick pepper bacon, fat reserved (cook and cool this ahead of time)

1 medium shallot, minced
1 large clove garlic, grated
1/2 t dried basil
1/2 t capers, minced
2 T Cognac

+/- 2 T butter
+/- 2 T flour (adjust the roux as needed)


1 wedge brie (I found a nice double creme brie with mushrooms), rind peeled
 3-4 T cream
Coarsely cracked black pepper, to taste

Chop the bacon for garnish; set aside.

Sautee shallot, garlic, basil and capers briefly in one teaspoon of the rendered bacon fat.  Add and cook off the cognac, 3-4 minutes.  Transfer to another pan.  Combine the butter and flour to create a roux, whisking continuously for 4-5 minutes to cook the flour well.  In the second pan, melt the cheese over medium heat with the first ingredients.  Stir to prevent scorching.  Add the cream, roux, and season.  Stir over medium heat until proper consistency is reached.  Pour over the steak and garnish with bacon.

**keep the cream at hand, and add more if needed to smooth out the sauce.  This batch took nicely to a little fresh beef stock as well.**



THE SIDES

I took corn, carrots, white rose potatoes and parboiled them.  To these, I added onion, celery, jalapeno pepper slices and broccoli, drizzled in olive oil and sprinkled with garlic salt and lots of black pepper.

First turn; I ended up with a nice char for the plateup.


This will either make three great meals, or two plus incredible hash tomorrow for breakfast!  Let me know if you try this one.

Sunday, April 3, 2011

Roast turkey with hickory Bourbon glaze

(Click on image for larger view)

Hey, times are tough, and with my car on the rack for a new head gasket, I'm cleaning out the freezer - everything must go!

For the next month, I'm only buying produce and re-working leftovers.  Well, something like that.

I've been sitting on last November's gift turkey (thanks, Boss) and now's the time.

Everyone has their traditional recipe / technique for roast turkey; this is one dish where my tastes run to the simple and less complicated (yes, unusual for me).  I don't typically make a stuffing when I cook this for myself but rather fill the cavity with herbs and mirepoix vegetables and simply baste the turkey with butter.  However, this time I am using a glaze which is near and dear to my heart - good Kentucky Bourbon.  I've been wanting to try this for a while.

Today the bird is accompanied by green beans sauteed in grape seed oil and balsamic vinegar finished with Hawaiian Alaea salt and a side of okra rice.  I have a chilled white Grenache to wash it down.

NOW -- onto the tryptophan-induced postprandial nap while lovely, golden herb infused stock simmers on into the evening!

THE RECIPE

1 defrosted turkey, rinsed well, neck and giblets reserved

1 cup Kosher or sea salt - more may be necessary

freshly ground pepper and more salt, to taste
3-4 carrots, split lengthwise into quarters
3-4 stalks celery, split lengthwise into quarters
1 medium onion, 1/4 in. slices
3-4 cloves garlic, roughly sliced
1/2 bunch flat leaf Italian parsley, torn into segments
2-3 sprigs thyme
2-3 sprigs sage
2-3 sprigs oregano

Rub the turkey inside and out with the salt and allow to rest upright for 1 1/2 hours.  Rinse and pat dry.

Preheat oven to 325 degrees Fahrenheit.

Season the turkey inside and out with salt and pepper.  Fill the cavity with herbs and vegetables, stuff the neck skin into the front of the cavity.  Press the tail section up to the back of the cavity and tie the legs together with twine.


THE GLAZE:
1/2 cup loosely packed brown sugar
4T softened butter
1/4 cup Dijon mustard
1/4 cup whole grain spicy brown mustard
1/2 cup Bourbon
4-6 drops liquid hickory smoke -- a word of caution here -- add the liquid smoke in 1-2 drop increments and taste the mixture after each addition.  You should have the fragrance of the smoke but not a strong flavor.  This is a POTENT ingredient and can overpower the dish if too much is added.  It should be evident, not prominent.

Blend these ingredients; if the butter does not mix in, set the glaze over low flame for just a bit.  Gently lift the skin away from the turkey breasts and rub about half the glaze over the meat.

Pull the skin back into place and set the bird into a roasting rack.

Place a few more split carrots and celery stalks, onion slices and crushed garlic cloves and some flat leaf Italian parsley sprigs in the bottom of a roasting pan.  Add a cup of water.  Set the prepped turkey on a rack in the roasting pan.  Spray some aluminum foil with pan release, cover the turkey loosely and place on the lower rack of the oven..

Roast the turkey for 2 - 2 1/2 hours, basting with pan juices.  Remove the foil and roast for another 1 1/2 to 2 hours, basting with the remaining half of the glaze until the skin is a dark mahogany color, and the temperature at the thickest part of the thigh joint reaches 165 degrees Fahrenheit.  Rotate the pan each hour, inverting its placement in the oven (my oven seems to have a bias to the right side).

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Luscious; right out of the oven.




SURVIVAL TIP -- To avoid overcooking the white meat, if necessary carve it off and return the rest of the turkey to the oven and cover the remainder tightly with foil until the temperature has been reached.  I had to implement this trick today.  This 25 pound beast took almost 6 hours.

Allow the turkey to rest approximately 30 minutes, slice and serve with desired sides and gravy.

TURKEY GRAVY:

Neck and giblets from the turkey

(I pan fried the liver, and with a couple eggs and some cheese it made a great breakfast burrito.)

2 carrots, split into quarters lengthwise
2 stalks celery, split into quarters lengthwise
1/2 large onion, medium dice
3 cloves garlic, crushed
2 bay leaves
1t whole black peppercorns
1t salt
2 sprigs thyme
4 sprigs flat leaf Italian parsley
2 quarts water

2T cornstarch, dissolved in cold water

Place all ingredients except cornstarch in a sauce pan.  Simmer 45 minutes; do not boil.  Strain and return to low heat.  Strain pan drippings, cool and skim off the fat.  Add to the stock, warm through and slowly whisk in the cornstarch.  Stir until thickened.  Serve hot.

Sequoia has been close to the kitchen all day, and between the skin, giblets and trimmings he is one happy dog!

Monday, February 21, 2011

Poached pears with bleu cheese

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I am not a freak for sweets and desserts, but this is one I enjoy.  I think it's because this is not insipidly sweet; it picks up tart flavor from the balsamic vinegar and lemon juice.

This is a wonderful end to any meal; ripe, succulent pears poached in port and stuffed with bleu cheese, drizzled with a silky, syrupy port reduction.  Serve this with a snifter of Cognac or your favorite cordial -- even serve it alongside a little lavender ice cream!

I first tasted these lovelies in Palm Desert; they have been a staple of mine ever since - with the requisite additions to make them my own.

Cast of characters.

THE RECIPE

1 pear per person (these are red d'anjou)
1 bottle cooking quality port wine, 750ml / 1/5 Liter as needed
1-2 T granulated sugar
2 T balsamic vinegar
1 t lemon juice
1/2 t dried tarragon leaves
1/2 t dried basil leaves

In the poaching liquid; the port imparts a beautiful rose tint to the pears.

4 - 8 oz. blue veined cheese, crumbled (this is where you can splurge, since you saved money buying cheap port - look for Maytag bleu cheese or English Stilton)

Peel and core the pears; set into the smallest sauce pan which fits the pears without stacking.  Cover with port wine and add the remaining ingredients.  Bring the port to a simmer and poach the pears until very tender, 10 -15 minutes.  Remove the pears with a slotted spoon and chill them in the refrigerator.

Chill a dessert plate for each pear in the freezer.

Strain the port mixture to remove the herbs.

Pour port mixture into a deep skillet or larger sauce pan with wide surface area.  Simmer over medium heat; do not boil.  Reduce the port mixture to syrup.  Check the flavor and adjust the tart / sweet components to your taste.  Remove from heat.

Slice the base of each pear to ensure it will sit flat on its plate.  Plate each pear, fill the core with cheese, drizzle with port syrup and garnish with a little more of the cheese. 

Sit back and accept compliments.