Seared diver scallops with a citrus-thyme emulsion

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Those of you who know me understand this sauce is a departure from my usual tastes; SO I had to tart it up a bit with the addition of some Champagne vinegar to play off the sweetness of the citrus.  But as I worked it out in my mind, the combination just sounded so good I had to try it.

Thyme is, for me, the ultimate seafood herb, so we need to have that; and of course some vermouth.

I'm teaming the scallops up with another favorite, simply sauteed Swiss chard.  This slightly bitter green mellows when sauteed in olive oil and garlic. 

To round out my plate I have some quinoa simmered in rich, homemade chicken stock with a kick of heat and shredded carrot for color.

The emulsion, quinoa and chard should be cooked ahead of time and held warm; this way you can concentrate on the scallops, which you must sear very quickly over high heat.

THE RECIPE

SPICY QUINOA

1 cup Quinoa
1 1/4 cup water or stock (chicken or vegetable)
1 pinch of sea salt
Several drops la yu chili oil

1 carrot, finely grated

Soak quinoa in water for 30 minutes; drain and add to stock; add remaining ingredients and bring to a boil.  Cover, reduce heat to low and simmer for 30 minutes.  Check; if cooked add carrot and let sit for 5 minutes; fluff with a fork and let sit for 5 minutes more.  If needed, add more stock and continue to simmer until cooked.

CITRUS THYME EMULSION

Juice from 3 oranges
Juice from 1 large lemon
Juice from 1 lime
2T champagne vinegar
1 dash dry vermouth
1/2 shallot, minced
1 pinch sea salt

leaves from 3-4 sprigs thyme, chopped
3T extra virgin olive oil

1t corn starch and 1t cold water, combined

Simmer all ingredients up to the salt in a small sauce pan; reduce by 20%.  Add thyme and simmer 5 minutes.  Remove from heat, add oil and emulsify in a blender.  Return to low flame.  Add a small amount of the corn starch mixture, just enough to thicken up the sauce -- I found it just needed a little help to take shape.  Hold over low flame until ready to serve scallops.

SAUTEED SWISS CHARD

1 bunch Swiss chard, thoroughly washed, dried, heavy ribs removed and sliced into 2" thick strips
1 clove garlic, finely grated
2T extra virgin olive oil
Sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper, to taste

In a large skillet, saute garlic over medium heat for 1 minute; add the chard and cook until tender, approximately 2 minutes.  Toss to distribute the garlic; season with salt and pepper.  Hold in a warm oven and plate just prior to serving scallops.

SEARED DIVER SCALLOPS

4-6 medium scallops per person
2T canola or peanut oil

20 minutes prior to service, remove the scallops, pat dry and set on a plate at room temperature.  Place flat side down (like coins).  Shoo away all cats which will materialize as you do this.  

Once you are ready for service, heat a wok or skillet over high flame.  Add oil.  Hold scallop plate 1 inch above wok surface and carefully slide the scallops off the plate by holding them in place with your hand and sliding out the plate.

Sear the scallops for 30 - 45 seconds per side; it is important to not overcook the scallops or they will be tough.  If you are in doubt, slice into one of them.  The interior should be translucent and extremely tender.  It will be cool, like a very rare steak.

Plate the scallops on a bed of Swiss chard and drizzle with the citrus emulsion.  Serve immediately.

Lactic Fermentation Chapter 3: Sauerkraut

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To my shame, my fermenting crock has been sitting dry for quite some time - months, in fact.  I am getting back into things by launching a good-sized batch of green kraut.

My last two batches were made from red cabbage with several herbs which I prefer, but right now I just have a yearning for good old-fashioned straight up sauerkraut (well, with ONE twist).  I like to drop in some fresh dill.

As I detailed in my earlier fermentation posts (pickles and giardiniera mix) the vessel is simple and all up to your ingenuity, storage space and budget -- Mason jars, larger glass vessels, plastic tubs, OR glass / stoneware crocks specifically designed for this purpose.  No matter the receptacle, the physics are the same - weight to keep the product submerged in brine and outside air from entering the vessel while allowing gases from the fermentation to escape.  I am simply enamored of my 5L Gartopf crock http://www.probiotics-lovethatbug.com/sauerkraut-crock.html  -- it eliminates many of the problems I read others experiencing in their fermenting endeavors.  The start up cost by far outweighs the failed product and frustration of the other gadgets.

Salt helps to both draw out the juices of the cabbage and preserve the sauerkraut as well as keeping it crisp by preventing the growth of other bacteria which soften and break down the leaves further.  Once the leaves are shredded they are layered into the vessel with salt (and any other herbs and seasonings) and SMASHED to break down the cellulose structure of the leaves and release most of the juice.  This can be done by hand (ouch), potato masher or (ta-da!) by means of a hardwood tamper made just for kraut.  I found mine online from a shop in Oregon.  http://www.krautpounder.com/  This is the basis of the brine; more brine may be necessary to cover the product and weights.

Fermenting time is a function of temperature.  In cooler climes, less salt and longer ferment is the rule.  More salt and quicker turnaround is the guideline in warmer weather.  In general, +/- 3 weeks is a realistic expectation here in Southern California at 70 degree average temperatures.  If you have space for cold storage, you can keep the kraut in the vessel / crock until used up - just keep it submerged in brine.  Always keep some of the juice from each batch and use it as a "starter" for your next ferment.  I have to start from scratch this time, as I don't want to use the purple juice from my last 2 batches and discolor the green cabbage.

The catalyst for the ferment are the lactobacilli.  They do all the work.  These probiotics preserve the nutrients of the cabbage and themselves are great for your health!  With the brine and weights, we have created an anaerobic environment for the critters to get down to business -- as we shall now.

THE RECIPE

Green cabbage, to fill vessel 80% after pressing (for a 5L crock, it took about 9# for this batch)
Sea or Kosher salt, approx. 1T per 3# of cabbage
1 bunch fresh dill, chopped
Brine (1T per 1/2 gallon water), if needed

Today's cast of characters.

Shred the cabbage thinly and layer into the vessel with salt and herbs.

First layer with salt and dill.

Periodically tamp down the leaves until vessel is 80% full, or your arms wear out.  ( I season per half head of cabbage, and tamp after each whole head).  Smash the leaves until they are of a wilted texture.  Season the top layer and press down with weights.  Brine should cover the weights by at least 1/2 inch; add prepared brine if needed.

Here is the full batch -- all fingers and toes intact, brine added.

Cover with lid (whatever type you are using) and store in a cool place.  The Gartopf crock has a water channel in the lid to create a one-way air barrier.

The Gartopf two-stone system folds into place to keep the product submerged in the brine.

And we're ready to go.

When you see bubbling, the fermentation process has begun. Keep water in this chamber and only remove the lid to sample the sauerkraut after approximately two weeks.  You can add a bit more salt if things are not progressing as you like; play with it.

Here us a detail showing the channel filled with brine and the exit chamber - simple, smart engineering.

Continue the ferment until desired texture and flavor has been achieved.

Break out the Brats and whole grain mustard, and have fun!

Mulled wine, my way

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We are having a bit of winter-like weather (by Southern California standards) the last couple days and having a little time off I declare this a night for mulled wine.  It's a comforting, soul-warming treat for a cool winter's eve.

It's all a matter of interpretation. but the basic elements are dry red wine, spices and some type of fruit.

The good news is you do not have to break the bank and use your good wine for this recipe -- an inexpensive 1.5 liter bottle or box wine will do.  I like to use a dry Cabernet Sauvignon.  I like my mulled wine less sweet, so I cut way back on the sugar, and bump up the spices.

Be careful to warm this slowly and do not boil.  Hold over a heat diffuser on low flame or warm and hold in a crock pot set on low.  Make a double batch for the holidays if you have a crowd.  Perhaps next week I'll do Glogg!

THE RECIPE

1.5L dry red wine (one can also use a white wine)
1/2 cup port 
1/4 cup granulated sugar (or add more to taste)
4 pieces stick cinnamon
10 whole cloves
6 whole cardamom pods
pinch ground nutmeg
4 whole allspice
2 star anise
2 bay leaves
1/2 cup dried cranberries (Craisins) or raisins
1 orange, cut into eighths

Place all ingredients into a saucepan and warm over low flame; allow to steep for 20 minutes.  DO NOT BOIL.

You will know when it's done by the WONDERFUL aromas which drift all across your home.

Serve with some of the steeped fruit and garnish with cinnamon stick and orange slice.

Ricotta - herb stuffed pork tenderloin

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I don't CARE if it's 80 degrees today, warmer than our summer was, I want to roast something.  I found whole pork tenderloin on sale today, and that got me started.  I've added herbs and vegetables, and thought to bind that all together with ricotta - let's see how it goes.

The filling is resplendent with fresh herbs, and studded with garlic and baby spinach.  During roasting the tenderloin is wrapped with bacon to keep it moist.  I served this with some simple pan-roasted potatoes and with the braised red cabbage from the previous post.

THE RECIPE

3-4 # Pork tenderloin, roll cut lengthwise
Salt and pepper, to taste
Several dashes Worcestershire sauce
8-10 slices bacon
Twine for tying the roast

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The roll cut is achieved by opening up a flap evenly across the bottom of the roast lengthwise (fat cap up, if you haven't trimmed it) then filleting across evenly, in series, "unrolling" the rest of the tenderloin just like you are rolling out a mat, slicing along that same cut lengthwise, keeping your knife precisely parallel to the cutting board.  My roll was a bit thick in places but opened up to about 18 inches long.  You can level out any "bumps" or thick parts with a mallet.  Season both sides with Worcestershire sauce, salt and pepper, roll back up and set aside on a plate.  Meanwhile, prepare the filling.


1 cup baby spinach leaves, chiffonade
1/2 bunch flat leaf Italian parsley, chopped
1/2 bunch basil, chiffonade
2T thyme leaves, chopped
2 shallots, minced
2 large cloves garlic, minced
20 pieces sun dried tomatoes, reconstituted in hot water and minced
6 mushrooms, minced
1 cup ricotta cheese
1 egg, lightly beaten
1/4 - 1/3 cup plain bread crumbs, as needed for binding
Salt and pepper, to taste

Let the ricotta cheese come up to room temperature and blend all ingredients.

PREP

Preheat oven to 450 degrees Fahrenheit.

Unroll the pork tenderloin onto a cutting board; spread the stuffing mixture generously over the roll but keep the last 3/4  inch clean all the way around.  Roll the tenderloin up slowly, applying some tension to eliminate empty pockets.  Leave the flap side down.  Wrap the roast with several turns of twine, pull to form the roll and tie off.

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Wrap the roast with bacon.

Ready for the oven.

ROASTED POTATOES
3-4 white rose potatoes, cut into eighths
Drizzle olive oil
Cracked pepper

Place the rolled roast in an oven-proof pan alongside potatoes.  Drizzle the potatoes with oil and sprinkle with pepper.

Roast at high temp for 10 minutes then reduce heat to 325.  Roast until internal temperature reaches 145 degrees Fahrenheit.  Remove and let rest for 10 minutes.  Slice and serve with the potatoes and pan drippings or whole grain mustard.

Tart and Spicy braised red cabbage

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After more than three weeks of illness and a LOT of work I turn my hand again to my passion.  I love this dish but don't often put in all the sweet components many traditional recipes call for -- preserves, berries, pineapple, the like.  My ONE nod to convention is to include a Granny Smith apple.  I prefer to add more herbs, more vinegar and in this case, fresh jalapeno pepper.

THE RECIPE

1/4 lb sliced bacon (preferably thick-sliced peppered bacon), chopped
1 large onion, diced
2 Jalapeno peppers cored and minced

1 medium Granny Smith apple peeled, cored, chopped
1/3 cup apple cider vinegar
1/4 cup Champagne vinegar
1/4 cup dry red wine

1T dried oregano
1T dried dill leaves
2 bay leaves

Salt and pepper, to taste

1 large head red cabbage, cored and shredded

2 cups chicken stock

Over medium-low flame, brown the bacon pieces.  Add the onion, jalapenos and apple.  Saute until tender, ten minutes.  Add all remaining ingredients except stock.  Cover and reduce heat to low.  When cabbage just starts to wilt (8 minutes) add stock, increase heat and bring to a boil.  Cover, reduce heat to low, and simmer until cabbage is tender, approx. 1 1/2 hours.  Check seasonings; add more salt and pepper if needed, then sprinkle with another heavy dash of Champagne vinegar.

Serve as a warm side dish alongside any protein, or as part of a holiday meal.